Binarix128
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220V AC 50Hz, NTSC
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Swapping a motor to one that works on your voltage sounds smart, unless it is a super rare fan or you want to operate it with the original motor, running on 110v 50Hz won't make much difference and if it is a rare or collectable fan you won't operate it 24/7.
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WorldwideHIDCollectorUSA
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HID, LPS, and preheat fluorescents forever!!!!!!
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Ive been imagining what happens when a 120v light bulb is wired in series with the 120v fan.
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Desire to collect various light bulbs (especially HID), control gear, and fixtures from around the world.
DISCLAIMER: THE EXPERIMENTS THAT I CONDUCT INVOLVING UNUSUAL LAMP/BALLAST COMBINATIONS SHOULD NOT BE ATTEMPTED UNLESS YOU HAVE THE PROPER KNOWLEDGE. I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY INJURIES.
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HPS_250
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Long live the HPS and SOX!
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Ive been imagining what happens when a 120v light bulb is wired in series with the 120v fan.
Wow, I noticed that you reached 500 posts already! I’ve been here for nearly a year and I’m only at 408!
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I’ve always been interested in all kinds of lighting, mainly incandescent and HID, and especially all kinds of sodium lamps (HPS/LPS). I’ll tolerate LED but I’m not a fan of it. I’m not proud to say that my city has Devolved to LED.
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WorldwideHIDCollectorUSA
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HID, LPS, and preheat fluorescents forever!!!!!!
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I am really one such curious person.
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Desire to collect various light bulbs (especially HID), control gear, and fixtures from around the world.
DISCLAIMER: THE EXPERIMENTS THAT I CONDUCT INVOLVING UNUSUAL LAMP/BALLAST COMBINATIONS SHOULD NOT BE ATTEMPTED UNLESS YOU HAVE THE PROPER KNOWLEDGE. I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY INJURIES.
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HPS_250
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Long live the HPS and SOX!
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I am really one such curious person.
Definitely! There’s nothing wrong with being curious, I was just like that when I first joined this site. ![Smiley :)](/Smileys/default/smiley.gif)
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I’ve always been interested in all kinds of lighting, mainly incandescent and HID, and especially all kinds of sodium lamps (HPS/LPS). I’ll tolerate LED but I’m not a fan of it. I’m not proud to say that my city has Devolved to LED.
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WorldwideHIDCollectorUSA
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HID, LPS, and preheat fluorescents forever!!!!!!
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Definitely! There’s nothing wrong with being curious, I was just like that when I first joined this site. ![Smiley :)](/Smileys/default/smiley.gif)
I also like to help LG members from around the world with particular questions.
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Desire to collect various light bulbs (especially HID), control gear, and fixtures from around the world.
DISCLAIMER: THE EXPERIMENTS THAT I CONDUCT INVOLVING UNUSUAL LAMP/BALLAST COMBINATIONS SHOULD NOT BE ATTEMPTED UNLESS YOU HAVE THE PROPER KNOWLEDGE. I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY INJURIES.
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Binarix128
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I am really one such curious person.
I'm very curious too. That's why I make many questions about lighting and other stuff and reached the 500 mark in one year. There's nothing wrong with being curious and making questions, after all that site is for getting knowledge rather than showing collections. I came here with very little lighting and English knowledge, now after a year here I'm a little more advanced, I didn't even knew how to difference a MV from a HM. ![Grin ;D](/Smileys/default/grin.gif) If you want to know more about lamps I recommend you to check James's website lamptech.co.uk. It's a wiki with lamps info and an index of factory locations, videos of tv advertisements and more.
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Medved
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Ive been imagining what happens when a 120v light bulb is wired in series with the 120v fan.
Both will be overvolted. Or at least one of them. The reason is the rather high phase shift in the motor, but nearly none with the lamp. If tze phase shift is different, the vootages sum up vector as vectors (in a triangle). So the 240V may distribute like 2x150V or so.
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No more selfballasted c***
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Binarix128
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Both will be overvolted. Or at least one of them. The reason is the rather high phase shift in the motor, but nearly none with the lamp. If tze phase shift is different, the vootages sum up vector as vectors (in a triangle). So the 240V may distribute like 2x150V or so.
Wiring the fan in series with and incandescent bulb of the same power and adding a capacitor to the motor to compensate the phase shifting might work. What about running the fan in series with a lamp ballast of the same power?
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WorldwideHIDCollectorUSA
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When you mean similar power lamps, do you mean similar line voltage or wattage? From my understanding, power is rated in watts and voltage is the electromotive force. It is true that there are incandescent lamps that can have the same power in watts but have different voltages.
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« Last Edit: November 14, 2020, 07:29:18 PM by WorldwideHIDCollectorUSA »
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Desire to collect various light bulbs (especially HID), control gear, and fixtures from around the world.
DISCLAIMER: THE EXPERIMENTS THAT I CONDUCT INVOLVING UNUSUAL LAMP/BALLAST COMBINATIONS SHOULD NOT BE ATTEMPTED UNLESS YOU HAVE THE PROPER KNOWLEDGE. I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY INJURIES.
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funkybulb
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Lol Woldwide Hidlamp
In the US we can make A19 E26 bulbs 6 volt all the way to 300 volts.
120 volt 100 watt bulb will draw current .83333 of an amp 12 volt 100 watt bulb is 8.33 amps current draw
Let sat u have a 60 Volt 60 watt ped signal bulbs Yes it runs two in series in there on 120 volt But I only have one such lamp.
60 volt 60 watt bulb draws one amp But to power it on 120 volt u can kiss that Lamp good bye. So what i did i fund a lamp That draws 1 amp 120 volt. And that would Be GE wattmiser Par38 120 watt bulb. Since both lamp draws 1 amp. I went ahead Put 60 watt 60 v and 120 volt together in series It lit the 60 watt ped signal bulb at full power While 120 volt par 38 120 watt half dim This is the formula voltage x Amps= watts This is a very important basic electrical Formula that u must remember.
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No LED gadgets, spins too slowly. Gotta love preheat and MV. let the lights keep my meter spinning.
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Medved
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Wiring the fan in series with and incandescent bulb of the same power and adding a capacitor to the motor to compensate the phase shifting might work. What about running the fan in series with a lamp ballast of the same power?
Then still a problem remains: Stopped fan consumes higher power and mainly at higher currents than running one. So either you make the setup around runningfan and so the lamp gets overloaded during spin up, or around stopped fan and then the fan (andmaybe the bulb as well, due to overcompensation) gets overloaded when running. A fluorescent ballast has the advantage of its thermal mass, able to cover the 9verload for the spin up, but it by itself means a load varying during lamp startup, now the weak supply causing the ballast to not start properly. Anyway even in very optimal case, the setup would need precise balancing to not overload either part, which is nearly impossible (the mechanical load has huge variability there). So it may "work" on paper, but in reality it would be very unreliable as best. Better to use a transformer, if you can not swap or rewire the motor (many may be wound using two sections, which are connected in series or parallel for different markets).
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No more selfballasted c***
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WorldwideHIDCollectorUSA
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I would be interested in knowing if step down transformers can be installed in the attic where the fan is to be installed.
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Desire to collect various light bulbs (especially HID), control gear, and fixtures from around the world.
DISCLAIMER: THE EXPERIMENTS THAT I CONDUCT INVOLVING UNUSUAL LAMP/BALLAST COMBINATIONS SHOULD NOT BE ATTEMPTED UNLESS YOU HAVE THE PROPER KNOWLEDGE. I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY INJURIES.
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Ash
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A ballast can be used, but maybe instead of connecting it in series with the "entire" motor, connect it only in series with the main winding. The phase shift winding leave connected without the ballast, but change the capacitor value to get the same current at the new voltage
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Medved
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I would be interested in knowing if step down transformers can be installed in the attic where the fan is to be installed.
It can be a toroidal autotransformer in the fan "base". The fans are heavy so need substantial anchor anyway, which shoul be able to handle the toroidal autotransformer as well. The motors usually need higher currents for startup (when they tend to loose the magnetic "grip") but then let the current to drop when it is at speed, so the ballast isn't good idea.
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No more selfballasted c***
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