I want to get brighter light bulbs in my garage door opener and over the space.  I'm not sure which bulbs I should look out for, but have some general considerations.  If you look them over for yourself, I think you'll find them reasonable:

- Doesn't produce too much heat.  The garage door opener doesn't have any information regarding max wattage for incandescent bulbs, so I don't know how much they intended the plastic body to handle.  The plastic diffuser is frosted and has maybe 18 slots on top and bottom to let some air through.  The A19 bulb glass gets very close to the shiny sticker-thin reflector and seems too close for comfort.  When I use an A15 bulb, it fits with more clearance between the plastic and the bulb, but its light output is too dim (40w = ~290-330 lumens).  When I tried 72 watt halogen bulbs (~1100 lumens), the adhesive that holds the reflector sticker began to fail.

- Bright enough to light the path between cars.  The incandescent bulbs produced an average of 300 lumens for 40 watts.  Halogen 43 watt bulbs produce about double that, at an average of 700 lumens.  Even so, I'd really like more lumens if possible.  1000 to 2000 lumens would be nice. 

- Small base and neck.  There's not much room between the plastic motor/control box and the nearly-parallel light socket, so only bulbs shaped like a regular pear-shaped bulb will probably work.  Either that or tube-shaped bulbs.  Bulky electronic drivers or heat sink apparatuses probably won't fit.

But beyond this

How can consumers know which bulbs won't interfere with the garage door signal?  I use a remote-control built into the car (Toyota), so finding the frequency may be easier (since I probably have the information somewhere), or harder (since it might be a very generalized set of frequencies designed to open most doors).  I apologize in advance if what I presumed made little sense.

But is there a good way to tell if the bulb will work before getting the car locked out of the house or something? Maybe looking up spec sheets or simulating frequencies in some way?  Or are certain LED bulbs more compatible with garage door openers (such as a certain brand, or glassLED bulbs vs. snow-cone LED bulbs)? I hope I don't have to be stuck paying for seemingly over-priced "garage door opener bulbs".

I'm puzzled on this, but if anyone has asked and answered this before, please let me know.

I do not understand what "compatibility" you mean?

Interference with the RF control signals? Then all are safe. The lamps are subject to CISPR25 RF emission limits, which pretty much guarantees there wont be any connection performance problem. Plus the converters which are used in the ballasts are not generating anything in the 300+MHz range the openers RF control uses. The thing is, the components are really physically not able to generate anything above few MHz, so it may affect the AM or SW radio broadcast, anything above 50MHz is pretty safe even with s$$$ty LED or CFL lamps.

To not get the lamp or the opener triac (if it does not use relay) killed by the opener flashing the lamp? This is more tricky, as some ballast designs don't like frequent switching (but halogens do not like it either).

Well, then, I wonder why manufacturers design "garage door" bulbs?  I'm actually curious, because I don't see much information on this publicized.
Is it just a sort of scam to take people's money away?  In that case, I could use any LED bulb that fits...

Most garage door opener bulbs I've seen would use more filament supports than a standard incandescent, and maybe a little bit underdriven too.  Most of those that I've seen are A19 though.  If space is an issue, you could maybe try out A15 ceiling fan bulbs, which also often have well supported filaments.  Brightness maybe an issue though, as a 60 watt ceiling fan bulb has an output of about 500 lumens, instead of about 800 for a standard 60 watt.

It maybe of interest to you, but recently at Lowe's I saw an LED garage door opener bulb.  Didn't look too closely at it, or know what makes it special, but they had one.

I think it has to do with
1. The bulb being exposed to vibration (when mounted on the motor assembly)
2. The bulb is flashing, so mainly with LEDs it means the design of the ballast should allow that without current spikes (charging the filter capacitors; potentially damaging to the triac in the flasher cirvuit) ans should start immediately (somd SMPS based ballasts takes half second to start, mainly the dimmable ones will more likely suffer, these would be unusable)

For a garage door opener, the bulb does not need to have its mains flicker soppressed, so the filter capacitor behind the rectifier (the component causing the startup stress for the switching element) could be omitted.
Plus it operates intermittenly only, so does not need to be that tight on thermal budget, so a higher loss linear current regulator (those led driver power JFETs,...) is used, which has no delay whatsoever.