WorldwideHIDCollectorUSA
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| I wonder if operating a Japanese 100v HID ballast designed for 50 or 60hz operation should cause any damage to the ballast if it is operated on a 120v 60hz supply?
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Desire to collect various light bulbs (especially HID), control gear, and fixtures from around the world.
DISCLAIMER: THE EXPERIMENTS THAT I CONDUCT INVOLVING UNUSUAL LAMP/BALLAST COMBINATIONS SHOULD NOT BE ATTEMPTED UNLESS YOU HAVE THE PROPER KNOWLEDGE. I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY INJURIES.
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sox35
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| 120V is 20% above the rated input voltage, so I can't imagine the ballast would be thrilled about it, and the output voltage would be higher as well so the lamp might be overdriven somewhat. The tolerance isn't usually that high, but I'm not 100% certain. I would check with the ballast manufacturers to be sure.
Personally, I am not a fan of running any lamp or ballast in a circuit that it isn't designed for. That is to say if I have a 35W SOX lamp then I run it on a 35W SOX ballast. If I do not have or can't get a 35W SOX ballast, I wait until I can before I light the lamp. If I have a 40W fluorescent lamp ballast for example, I don't run a SOX lamp on it. If I have a 120V 60Hz ballast then I run it on a 120V 60Hz supply, not the 277V tapping on a 240V supply, even though I know it will work.
But that's me, I have always been a perfectionist. One thing I hate is to see a lamp or ballast unnecessarily destroyed by improper use, especially if it's a rare item that cannot easily be replaced.
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« Last Edit: October 20, 2020, 04:55:15 PM by sox35 »
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joseph_125
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| I run 100v equipment using two ways. For low power items I have a small 120v to 100v buck transformer that I got from Japan. For higher power items, I just set my variac to 100v (verify with a voltmeter as the scale might be off) and run it like that.
I generally don't experiment with fiddling around with different gear types but there are some well accepted and tested substitutions on this site that I'll do.
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sox35
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| I would be interested in a 120V to 100V transformer, it might come in useful. Where did you get it..?
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Ash
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| For inductive loads, running 100V 50Hz gear on 120V 60Hz will actually get spot on current, as the V/Hz is the same. (This applies to lamps to limited extent, since lamp circuits are non linear - There is the lamp arc voltage + and then the inductive impedances. But in many cases it compensates closely enough)
Alternatively, take an 120V to 12V/24V isolation transformer, rated for the current of your 100V load (so quite small VA actually), and wire it's secondary in series with the primary to create an autotransformer for your wanted voltage
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joseph_125
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I would be interested in a 120V to 100V transformer, it might come in useful. Where did you get it..?
I picked mine up at the airport in Tokyo but I found a few on eBay. I recall there also being a 240v to 100v transformer too. I got it mostly to run a Japanese exit sign I picked up so the low power output was perfect for it. |
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« Last Edit: October 20, 2020, 05:51:56 PM by joseph_125 »
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Medved
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| The ballast maker will tel for sure. But very likely it is not fromally rated for anything else.
Then it depends what ballast we are talking about. If it is a series choke (it will probably have one connection for 50Hz, other for 60Hz, if really rated for both), then the "50Hz" connection will compensate for the 120V at 60Hz.
When it is electronic (so no reconnection/switching between 50/60Hz), the 120V may mean lamp overload.
If it is something like CWA (with capacitor), it would become quite difficult to convert to 120V.
So if rated 100V/60Hz, best would be to use an 120->100V autotransformer...
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No more selfballasted c***
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Bulbman256
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Mad Max
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| If it was incadecent, then i say get a transformer. But if it was a cfl/led that could Handel eh voltage variation better then run it straight off of the grid.
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Collecting light bulbs since 2012, a madman since birth.
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WorldwideHIDCollectorUSA
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HID, LPS, and preheat fluorescents forever!!!!!!
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For inductive loads, running 100V 50Hz gear on 120V 60Hz will actually get spot on current, as the V/Hz is the same. (This applies to lamps to limited extent, since lamp circuits are non linear - There is the lamp arc voltage + and then the inductive impedances. But in many cases it compensates closely enough)
Alternatively, take an 120V to 12V/24V isolation transformer, rated for the current of your 100V load (so quite small VA actually), and wire it's secondary in series with the primary to create an autotransformer for your wanted voltage
Should a 100v 50Hz HX autotransformer ballast be safe on a 120v 60Hz mains supply as well? |
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Desire to collect various light bulbs (especially HID), control gear, and fixtures from around the world.
DISCLAIMER: THE EXPERIMENTS THAT I CONDUCT INVOLVING UNUSUAL LAMP/BALLAST COMBINATIONS SHOULD NOT BE ATTEMPTED UNLESS YOU HAVE THE PROPER KNOWLEDGE. I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY INJURIES.
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Medved
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| It may yield very similar current, but it should be carefuly verified by measurement.
What will differ is the OCV and so the slope how the current changes with the arc voltage variation, which will be OK for unsaturated lamps (e.g. MV), but may cause worse thermal stability for saturated vapor types (e.g. HPS).
Plus the 20% higher OCV will pose about 40% (or even more) higher power dissipation load on the resistor in the ignitor when the lamp won't ignite (lamp failure, hot restrike,...), which may be too much so may cause earlier ignitor failure. So would require better care to make sure the ballast is not exposed to open load when powered.
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WorldwideHIDCollectorUSA
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| If the ballast’s secondary voltage (OCV) is higher, can using an ignitor designed for a higher supply voltage help remedy such situations?
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« Last Edit: June 23, 2023, 03:34:31 AM by WorldwideHIDCollectorUSA »
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Desire to collect various light bulbs (especially HID), control gear, and fixtures from around the world.
DISCLAIMER: THE EXPERIMENTS THAT I CONDUCT INVOLVING UNUSUAL LAMP/BALLAST COMBINATIONS SHOULD NOT BE ATTEMPTED UNLESS YOU HAVE THE PROPER KNOWLEDGE. I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY INJURIES.
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Medved
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| Of course, it is exactly the real OCV of the ballast vs the OCV the ignitor is designed for...
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Alex
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feel free to ask questions
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I would be interested in a 120V to 100V transformer, it might come in useful. Where did you get it..?
Hello, If I am correct you should be able to make yourself by running a 240V/48V transformer in a non isolating setup. If you put 120V in it you can get 99.6V out. You connect primary and secondary in series. on one net you put neutral on the other the 120V. Between the connection were both coils are connected and neutral you should hav 17% less voltage than the input voltage. You just need to be carefull when putting it together that you make sure the coils are wound in the same direction best regards, Alex |
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Glück auf ⚒️
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Rommie
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WorldwideHIDCollectorUSA
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HID, LPS, and preheat fluorescents forever!!!!!!
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| If I am using 100v 50Hz magnetic preheat fluorescent series choke ballasts and 100v 50Hz magnetic preheat fluorescent HX autotransformer ballasts to run fluorescent lamps, should I be safe to run those ballasts on 120v 60Hz mains without the need of a step down transformer or a variac as long as the starter can tolerate the higher OCV?
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Desire to collect various light bulbs (especially HID), control gear, and fixtures from around the world.
DISCLAIMER: THE EXPERIMENTS THAT I CONDUCT INVOLVING UNUSUAL LAMP/BALLAST COMBINATIONS SHOULD NOT BE ATTEMPTED UNLESS YOU HAVE THE PROPER KNOWLEDGE. I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY INJURIES.
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