Now in days tweaking pics colors is thinks of few cliks, but back in the film era it wasn't that easy.

Most of the film that you can easily get now soots in color, and for simulate the old sepia effect you will need a SOX or a HPS, and if you want to apply cool effects you will need to use some colored incandescent or fluorescent bulbs.

I want to make a little short film shooted in film (super8 is just too expensive) I will use a normal film roll, at 3 fps stop-motion, each film roll contains around 36 pics, so I can animate 12 seconds, and if I recycle footage in post production I can make a 15 secs video.

I want to make a little short wich each scene is being lighted by different light sources.

Developming takes few day, but is quite cheap. You can choose if you want to print your pictures or burn in a CD. As highest the scan resolution gets more expensive, I think a 4k resolution will be ok, buying development kits just for a single experiment is not convenient.

Will be cool to use a SOX in the film but are impossible and expensive to find, but I will use others like my PHILIPS blue, my green 25w incandescent and my 160w SB merc, and many

I really want to do that project, I only need to save some money for the film roll and the development.

Do you know about any other lamp that will look cool on film?

My father has an old Super8 camera. It'd be interesting to get that out & film something with it (I'd be more interested in filming a good storm - ideally a tornado, than lights though .LOL. ) . I was surprised when I found out you could still get film (& get it developed) for those old things. Most likely I'll never actually do it though.

When it comes to Super8, what I really would like to get ahold of is the device that you use to convert its film to video on a computer.
Don't remember what they're called, but they're hard to find..when I've tried searching in the past, I end up with a bunch of worthless/spam results for services that'll do the conversion for you(at high cost). Not at all what I want.

Because of that super8 is not an option, since that is very rare to get the cameras, film rolls and developming, but normal 36 or 35mm photo film is easy to get, and hour developming can still be found.

But if you dad had a camera, he must had a projector for see the footage, so you if you find a blank super8 film in your house, film your footage and then develop the film in an hour develop or by yourself with a kit, and to scan the footage you can do a telecine, like in the TV era, pointing your camera at the output of the projector and focus it, or pointing the projector to a white wall and record it with your camera.

Since my project will be perform in a normal photo film, development stores can burn your pictures to a CD or USB stick with good resolution, as well as giving you the original film roll, so then I will just need to put the CD in my computer and import to a editing program.

@Binarix128:
Yep, he has a projector as well. 
But no film (last time you could buy film in normal stores here was mid 1980's), it was only in the past couple years I found out you could still get the film online.
I've heard you can do the point the projector to a white wall & record with a digital video camera, but the quality doesn't turn out that well.
I'd really prefer to convert straight to digital. (want to use it as a way to back up the films he recorded from when I was a kid)

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What you plan to do with 35mm photos sounds pretty cool.
Maybe try a blacklight too?
A yellow/gold fluorescent tube might give something similar to a SOX effect?

I also want to put some music, I will use a rip of classic music from the radio that I recorded few moths ago that was recorded in a cassete tape, I just need a silent room and and point a digital audio recorder to the speaker, anyway the tape was recorded in mono.

I found a very cheap changing color LED bulb that will do the job well, since LED are quite accurated emmiting light waveleghts. So I just need the money for the bulb, the film and the development. 

@Binarix128:
If your computer is a desktop, there should be an audio line-in on the back...use an output (or the headphone jack) on your stereo, to connect to the line-in. You'll get much better quality that way.
Also stereo, not mono!

The RGB LED is a really good idea for trying different colors.

xmaslightguy sadly my PC is a modern notebook and it doesn't have a line or separated mic imput, it have a 4-pole 3,5mm jack input, and I don't have an adapter to split the inputs, so that's the only way to digitize my cassete tape. 

@Binarix128:
Yep. pretty common setup on a modern laptop.
If you wanted the extra line in/out/etc you'd have to but a separate adapter...

@Binarix128:
...I've heard you can do the point the projector to a white wall & record with a digital video camera, but the quality doesn't turn out that well.
I'd really prefer to convert straight to digital...

You can take a camera with a manual focus option, and put the camera directly at the output of the projector like in the picture, by this way you can scan your films to digital or VHS tapes, with way better quality than pointing to a wall.

@Binarix128:
Part of the issue I've heard with going projector-to-camera (be it on a wall, or directly into the videocamera is you'll end up with some parts where you capture part-way between frames on from the film)
My digital camcorder does have a manual focus (and manual brightness which is also important), one of these days I'll have to experiment with it, just to see how well it does...
but I'd still rather get the actual device that'll transfer film straight into the computer.

With VHS tapes, I can record straight to DVD (as long as there's no copy protection), so that one is easy

You can adjust the shoot speed of your camera to 1/8 of a second for avoid capturing black frames, since most of 8mm movies was shooted at 8 fps for fit more footage into a tape. The other way if you can't do that is taking a picture of every single frame and then joint everyting thogether in a video edition software. That's why remastering a movie can take even more than film it again.

I'm not sure I can adjust the speed on my camera that much. Its something I'd have to look at the instruction manual...

Doing each frame individually would simply take far too long. LOL
Take a standard 3-minute super-8 movie .. assuming its 8 FPS, that'd be 1440 images! you'd be talking hours of work