Pete
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| Hello all,
I wonder if I could call on your experience to help me with a frustrating problem with this lamp. It is an oldish lamp which failed, on inspection the ballast had melted. A complete new kit has been fitted and all wires/connections remade as per old. It will not light, I have no idea why and I have checked, checked and checked again all my work.
Any thoughts please.
Pete
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sox35
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| Can you post a picture of the lamp..?
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HomeBrewLamps
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| Both pictures of your lamp and your wiring would probably help alot.
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~Owen
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Pete
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| Hello,
I am grateful for your help
Thanks
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AngryHorse
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Rich, Coaster junkie!
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| I can’t tell fully from the photo, but you don’t seem to have a lamp return neutral connected?
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« Last Edit: November 22, 2019, 10:13:51 AM by AngryHorse »
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Current: UK 230V, 50Hz
Power provider: e.on energy
Street lighting in our town: Philips UniStreet LED (gen 1)
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Pete
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| Hello Rich,
I thought that the lamp return is the white/ cream wire which is connected to the bottom terminal of the Ignitor as you look at the picture. I traced it and it goes to the lamp holder, as mentioned previously, all connections have been remade as per original control gear. Is it possible that the bulb is at fault??? The reason I say this is that a new bulb was fitted before the melted ballast was discovered.
Thanks
Pete
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AngryHorse
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Rich, Coaster junkie!
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If you look at the ignitors diagram though, that is the feed from out of the ballast that twins up with the lamps ‘live’, I would expect to see two wires in the ignitors neutral terminal, the one that’s already there, (to the capacitor), and one from the neutral pin of the lamp holder, again, as per the ignitors diagram  |
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« Last Edit: November 22, 2019, 03:08:34 PM by AngryHorse »
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Current: UK 230V, 50Hz
Power provider: e.on energy
Street lighting in our town: Philips UniStreet LED (gen 1)
Longest serving LED in service at home, (hour count): Energetic mini clear globe: 57,746 hrs @ 15/12/24
Welcome to OBLIVION
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AngryHorse
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Rich, Coaster junkie!
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I’m not sure if you’re comfortable with a re-wire from scratch, but I would completely disassemble it and wire from scratch as per the ignitors diagram, then you will know if it’s the lamp or not?, but from what I can see, and being familiar with Philips control gear, I don’t see a lamp return? Sorry to be a pain, but a more detailed photo would help, as it’s odd that a Philips ballast has melted??, they don’t usually, being some of the best gear you can buy I’m wondering if you’re flood had a previous problem?? |
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Current: UK 230V, 50Hz
Power provider: e.on energy
Street lighting in our town: Philips UniStreet LED (gen 1)
Longest serving LED in service at home, (hour count): Energetic mini clear globe: 57,746 hrs @ 15/12/24
Welcome to OBLIVION
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AngryHorse
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Rich, Coaster junkie!
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| Just out of interest, that white/cream wire going to the lamp holder, what pin of the holder is it on?, and does the thick brown wire from the ballast also go to the lamp holder?
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Current: UK 230V, 50Hz
Power provider: e.on energy
Street lighting in our town: Philips UniStreet LED (gen 1)
Longest serving LED in service at home, (hour count): Energetic mini clear globe: 57,746 hrs @ 15/12/24
Welcome to OBLIVION
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Pete
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| Hello, yes, both thick brown and thinner white/cream wire go to the bulb holder
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Pete
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| Hello, i was puzzled by the same thought but as I mentioned the wiring is exactly as it was when the lamp was working. I have found a wiring diagram that mirrors the wiring in the fitting, I’ve attached it for you to see.
Once again, thank you for your advice
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AngryHorse
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Rich, Coaster junkie!
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| Right, so I’m clear, as the diagram shows, your thick brown wire is going from the third pin of the transformer/ ballast to the live pin of the holder, and your thin white wire is from the screw body of the holder to what you have as the first pin on your ignitor?
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Current: UK 230V, 50Hz
Power provider: e.on energy
Street lighting in our town: Philips UniStreet LED (gen 1)
Longest serving LED in service at home, (hour count): Energetic mini clear globe: 57,746 hrs @ 15/12/24
Welcome to OBLIVION
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Pete
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| Yes, that’s right. But I have been giving the situation a lot of thought, the wiring diagram on the SN58 ignitor shows the white/cream wire retuning to the neutral terminal on the ignitor (the furthest one away in the picture and a new connection from the bulb terminal on the ballast or as the diagram shows a join/link into the thick brown wire.
My worry now is how do I make that connection to the brown wire? Do I just connect another wire to the chocolate block at the ballast. Am I risking damaging the control gear if I have it wrong.
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sox35
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| As Rich said earlier, I'd just rewire the whole thing from scratch. If you follow the diagram you won't go wrong and you'll know that all the wiring is in good condition.
Personally I hate it when lots of the wires are the same colour. I have a fixture where *all* of the wires apart from the incoming feed are white, and I am sorely tempted to rewire it, even though it works fine..!
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AngryHorse
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Rich, Coaster junkie!
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Yes, well done, you have figured out what I was seeing, put the thin white/cream wire with the blue on the ignitor, then you just need a small piece of wire from the first terminal of the ignitor to go in with the brown to your ballast, hence my thoughts of you having no neutral return from the lamp, you had effectively two live feeds to the lamp holder, if you’re concerned about damage to the gear, do your first test with a low fuse rating, (but not too low so the ignition voltage takes it out). |
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« Last Edit: November 23, 2019, 11:27:39 AM by AngryHorse »
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Current: UK 230V, 50Hz
Power provider: e.on energy
Street lighting in our town: Philips UniStreet LED (gen 1)
Longest serving LED in service at home, (hour count): Energetic mini clear globe: 57,746 hrs @ 15/12/24
Welcome to OBLIVION
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