You can connect the metal body to groun and one of the two fases to the local current (crazy idea)
That should do nothing, as the metal body should be fully insulated from the working wiring. If it is not, itis time scrapping the ballast, because it is faulty.
And for the 240V for lighting in north America: The NEC does not allow to connect any lighting in residential areas to 240V, so better do not mess with it. There are good reasons behind those rules, so it is never bad idea to stick on them.
Ideal case is to find a 120V tap in the ballast. Very likely it is there, its wire could just be shortened and capped when the thing was originally installed. If it is an electronic ballast, check, whether it already does not operate on 120V as well.
Otherwise the only good option is to use a transformer to step the voltage up. The switch is then obviously on the 120V side, so that transformer becomes part of the light fixture.