I'm hoping someone can help fill me in... I have a second generation 400W MV OV-25 (appears to be 120V...have not tried it yet...don't want to blow the PCB capacitors) that has two original capacitors wired in series that are slightly bulging. Unfortunately, they are rusty and the data stamp is very hard to decipher. What I need is the uF (micro-fared). Does anyone have a similar lumenaire that they can check? From what I can find online, its probably a 26uF or 35uF requirement, but I want to make sure before I make a purchase. Thank-you in advance.

The Advance 120 v 400 h-33 I mave says to use 35uF

Update: I was able to just make out the text on the bottom of the rusty OE Westinghouse capacitor. There are two capacitors. Together they are 29.2 uF. Has anyone used a 30uF as a replacement? (A 29uF is almost impossible to find.) A 28uF may also work OK, but I don't have enough experience with sizing capacitors.

Brand: Westinghouse
Part No.: xxxxxxH01
Capacity: 14.6 MFD
Voltage: x80 VAC

(The x's reference numbers that are illegible.)

Update: I was able to just make out the text on the bottom of the rusty OE Westinghouse capacitor. There are two capacitors. Together they are 29.2 uF. Has anyone used a 30uF as a replacement? (A 29uF is almost impossible to find.) A 28uF may also work OK, but I don't have enough experience with sizing capacitors.

Capacitors (at least those I've used for PF correction) usually have a tolerance of +/- 10%, so if 30µF is specified, then +/- 3µF would be within spec.

I would  use 30uf or 2x 15uf Amrad cap there are good American made cap and i save many of then from
A/c units and they work well for hid lighting.
you can order them from home depot or any places
that sells caps.

Update 2: I decided to go out and buy a fancy multi-meter. After setting it to the capacitance setting, setting the REL button, and after discharging the dual capacitors, the meter gave a reading of 30.23uF. So a 30uF capacitor is what I'm going to buy, with a 300 VAC minimum rating.

Thanks Ria & FunkyBulb for your input.

Update 2: I decided to go out and buy a fancy multi-meter. After setting it to the capacitance setting, setting the REL button, and after discharging the dual capacitors, the meter gave a reading of 30.23uF. So a 30uF capacitor is what I'm going to buy, with a 300 VAC minimum rating.

Thanks Ria & FunkyBulb for your input.

No problem  

Yes a meter that will test capacitors is useful, mine came into its own when I got a job lot of both new and used PFC capacitors from a contractor who was retiring. I was worried some of them might not be the right value, as they can deteriorate over time. Fortunately, they were all well within specification  

@ westinghousecermalux

yes meter is a usefull tool to have
 also the Amrad cap is rated for 440 volts
 most motor run caps ive seen is either 370
or 440 working volts. i never had any problem
using motor run caps on hid ballast.  as this
cap mace so well i seldom find any failed ones
a brand new Amrad  cap is usually bit over but with
within tolernces.  But I am using a Turbo mini
combonation capacitor by Amrad that give me any
where from 2.5 uF to 15 uF on my White sided popular pack using it 5uF tested it was run at 5.5uF it gave me 790 mA leading current to run my 800 mA american tubes on British 125 watt 8 foot fluorescent fixture
orginally it had a 7.2 uF i was drawing 1.25 amps
it was over driving the ballast cause of 60 Hz
it good to have a meter come in handy

@MissRiaElaine

in His case the westinghouse Gear is CWA Contant Watt Autotransformer ballast. Having a leading cap
to regulate lamp current  here.

On HPS gear and MH  can have PFC caps wired across the mains.  lot times  those crappy plastic case capicitor
I just throw those away being PFC cap but in CWA appication it the metal can cap id would use.

@MissRiaElaine

in His case the westinghouse Gear is CWA Contant Watt Autotransformer ballast. Having a leading cap
to regulate lamp current  here.

On HPS gear and MH  can have PFC caps wired across the mains.  lot times  those crappy plastic case capicitor
I just throw those away being PFC cap but in CWA appication it the metal can cap id would use.

Don't throw them away, personally I believe PFC is important. Maybe not so much where you are, but I like things to be complete and if the manufacturers specify a PFC capacitor (and they all do) then I believe one should be included. I build displays as you may know, and if nothing else I like them to be complete.

If you really don't want them, send them to me