I've never seen electronic controlled gas stoves. Only ceramic and induction stoves.
Here in Israel, the gas companies uses this truck for gas tanks delivering:


For refilling central gas infrastructures, they uses tanker truck:

I tend to use the front left burner the most often, since I'm left handed.  I have a gas stove at my full time house, which is awesome!  Really precise heat control and I've never had a pot boil over.  I have a flat top electric stove at the lake house.  I don't like that one as much, since it takes a long time to warm up and adjusting the temperature doesn't do much.  I burnt my bacon on that electric stove and smoked up the whole house   I'm partial to gas stoves.

I tend to use the front left burner the most often, since I'm left handed.  I have a gas stove at my full time house, which is awesome!  Really precise heat control and I've never had a pot boil over.  I have a flat top electric stove at the lake house.  I don't like that one as much, since it takes a long time to warm up and adjusting the temperature doesn't do much.  I burnt my bacon on that electric stove and smoked up the whole house  I'm partial to gas stoves.

I use the front left ring the most as well, and I'm right handed. But now it's the one going EoL. 
That's why we want to get a stove with an induction hob, they respond as quick as a gas hob.

Sol even older gas ovens that didn't have a pilot light inside them needed to be plugged in, they need the power for the hot surface igniter and the gas safety valve which uses a bi-metal strip that is heated slightly because of the current drawn by the hot surface igniter allowing the gas valve to open so you don't fill the oven with gas by accident.. my older gas stove from the 70's even used this design but yes the newer one has a computer in it and a fan in the oven, but all the surface burners will work during a power outage so long as you light them with a lighter..   

I use the front left ring the most as well, and I'm right handed. But now it's the one going EoL. 
That's why we want to get a stove with an induction hob, they respond as quick as a gas hob.

just throwing it out there, I don't know what the wiring is like to stoves in the UK but here several of the induction hobs here need a 50 amp line, and most homes only come standard with 40 amp wiring for a normal hob, so sometimes it can just be a breaker change out, but sometimes it's new wire pulling and a new breaker, and all stoves use a 50 amp plug here so if anyone is looking at a new induction stove over here, pull the receptacle and check the wire being used to make sure it's good for 50 amps.. 

just throwing it out there, I don't know what the wiring is like to stoves in the UK but here several of the induction hobs here need a 50 amp line, and most homes only come standard with 40 amp wiring for a normal hob, so sometimes it can just be a breaker change out, but sometimes it's new wire pulling and a new breaker, and all stoves use a 50 amp plug here so if anyone is looking at a new induction stove over here, pull the receptacle and check the wire being used to make sure it's good for 50 amps..  

The one we're looking at is only a small one and needs just a 30A 240V connection, we have a 40A breaker on that circuit so we'll be fine

The connection at the cooker end is typically hard wired with a connector block behind a faceplate, no plug:

Just recently i installed wiring for some family, who want to convert from gas to induction

The reason :
In short, they had a close call with the gas and are scared to keep using it. One of the burners was clogged, which caused the Propane to flow under the top panel of the stove. Then when they lit it, it went with a bang (not big explosion, but scared the icicles out of them). I suggested to inspect and clean the burner orifices, but they insisted on converting to electric

The problem :
The flat gets 25A single Phase. This is less than the new cooker (already purchased) alone requires according to the manual (7kW, that is ~30A, needs 32A breaker). However, the 7kW is when all burners are on at the same time at max power, which in reality never happens. They will be able to run 2 burners and a small air conditioner on 25A just fine, if they dont push them too hard, and if they dont try to shower (5.5kW electric shower) while cooking...

While working on their panel, i replaced the main breaker (from 25A to new 25A, not due to value change. The breaker for the cooker is 25A too). Next day they call me, breaker tripped while they were in the shower. I ask what was switched on - the shower (24A) + heater (~5A) + some other stuff (~3A). Looks like the old 25A breaker was letting them overload somewhat more without tripping, while the new 25A breaker is more trip happy (the tolerances for breakers are quite wide, so this is not a sign that the old breaker is bad, just that it and the new one are on different ends of the ok range). If they keep overloading it in normal use, they will have to call the power company to upgrade the service to 40A

The one we're looking at is only a small one and needs just a 30A 240V connection, we have a 40A breaker on that circuit so we'll be fine

The connection at the cooker end is typically hard wired with a connector block behind a faceplate, no plug:

Well we've taken the plunge and ordered the new cooker, it's going to be arriving next Friday. It's also going to be interesting getting used to it, neither of us have ever used induction hobs before. We're also going to have to get new pans by the look of it, don't think the ones we have will work 

However, we got a good deal on the cooker as it was the last one in the store and was the display model, so they gave us a good markdown 

I don't usually use the stove but if I do I usually use the front right burner on it.

We have also a small electric portable stove, with two burners. They are not the coil type burners, but have a round flat metal surface that appears to be iron. It plugs into a standard 120V connection.

There's also an old camping stove out in the garage. It uses small gas bottles and has two burners.

There are 4 "burners" on our new induction hob. Two of them are the same size, the other two are different (one larger than the two identical ones, and one smaller), so we have three different sizes available. You have to make sure the pan is as close a fit to the area marked on the top of the hob as possible, or it won't work.

I’ve never heard of an induction hob and had to look it up. Of course, after looking at this thread all I had to type into search was “induc” and google knew exactly what I was looking for...

I always use duckduckgo.com, it doesn't track you like google does.

Yes, induction hobs are certainly interesting. It paid to wait for this one, when we first saw this cooker in John Lewis at the beginning of the year, it was  £749. When we went in yesterday, it was down to £649, as it was the last one in stock we haggled a bit and got them down to £600 

Front burners --Induction burners are nice--but EXPENSIVE.An if a user has a pacemaker-could be dangerous for them.Would think the prices of induction burners would have come down-like for microwave ovens-remember when they first came up and those were EXPENSIVE-only luxuiry cooks could afford one.

Just recently i installed wiring for some family, who want to convert from gas to induction

The reason :
In short, they had a close call with the gas and are scared to keep using it. One of the burners was clogged, which caused the Propane to flow under the top panel of the stove. Then when they lit it, it went with a bang (not big explosion, but scared the icicles out of them). I suggested to inspect and clean the burner orifices, but they insisted on converting to electric

The problem :
The flat gets 25A single Phase. This is less than the new cooker (already purchased) alone requires according to the manual (7kW, that is ~30A, needs 32A breaker). However, the 7kW is when all burners are on at the same time at max power, which in reality never happens. They will be able to run 2 burners and a small air conditioner on 25A just fine, if they dont push them too hard, and if they dont try to shower (5.5kW electric shower) while cooking...

While working on their panel, i replaced the main breaker (from 25A to new 25A, not due to value change. The breaker for the cooker is 25A too). Next day they call me, breaker tripped while they were in the shower. I ask what was switched on - the shower (24A) + heater (~5A) + some other stuff (~3A). Looks like the old 25A breaker was letting them overload somewhat more without tripping, while the new 25A breaker is more trip happy (the tolerances for breakers are quite wide, so this is not a sign that the old breaker is bad, just that it and the new one are on different ends of the ok range). If they keep overloading it in normal use, they will have to call the power company to upgrade the service to 40A

My mother, my father and my hostel, all had their burners clogged, but this was never lead to dangerous situations like you describes. But worth mentioning that all of them, have their stoves, equipped with a mechanism, that stops the gas flow if the flame don't lit well or at all.

Well we've taken the plunge and ordered the new cooker, it's going to be arriving next Friday. It's also going to be interesting getting used to it, neither of us have ever used induction hobs before. We're also going to have to get new pans by the look of it, don't think the ones we have will work 

However, we got a good deal on the cooker as it was the last one in the store and was the display model, so they gave us a good markdown 

Well the new cooker arrived this afternoon and it didn't take long to connect up, despite me dropping one of the screws of the terminal block down inside the back cover 

We've had our inaugural meal cooked with it, and the verdict so far is it's excellent, the induction hob heats up the contents of a pan very quickly, for a test we just boiled a pint of water and it took about 2 minutes. The main oven heats up very quickly as well, although as it's a fan oven, cooking times will have to be adjusted a little, we'll see how our favourite bananananana bread comes out at the weekend 

Just recently i installed wiring for some family, who want to convert from gas to induction

The reason :
In short, they had a close call with the gas and are scared to keep using it. One of the burners was clogged, which caused the Propane to flow under the top panel of the stove. Then when they lit it, it went with a bang (not big explosion, but scared the icicles out of them). I suggested to inspect and clean the burner orifices, but they insisted on converting to electric

The problem :
The flat gets 25A single Phase. This is less than the new cooker (already purchased) alone requires according to the manual (7kW, that is ~30A, needs 32A breaker). However, the 7kW is when all burners are on at the same time at max power, which in reality never happens. They will be able to run 2 burners and a small air conditioner on 25A just fine, if they dont push them too hard, and if they dont try to shower (5.5kW electric shower) while cooking...

While working on their panel, i replaced the main breaker (from 25A to new 25A, not due to value change. The breaker for the cooker is 25A too). Next day they call me, breaker tripped while they were in the shower. I ask what was switched on - the shower (24A) + heater (~5A) + some other stuff (~3A). Looks like the old 25A breaker was letting them overload somewhat more without tripping, while the new 25A breaker is more trip happy (the tolerances for breakers are quite wide, so this is not a sign that the old breaker is bad, just that it and the new one are on different ends of the ok range). If they keep overloading it in normal use, they will have to call the power company to upgrade the service to 40A

25A isn't much of a supply, how big is the place..? Even our small 1-bedroom flat has a 100A main breaker.