Hello Everyone:

Recently, I came across some uploads regarding a new Brink's 100W PSMH yardblaster.  I noticed a MAJOR safety flaw, and some people pointed this out.  However, I wanted to make others aware of this.  Basically, the issue with this fixture is that it has an open bottom, but has an UNPROTECTED lamp and NON-EXCLUSIONARY socket.  With an open lens, if the bulb goes bang, hot fragments will go everywhere, possibly creating a large fire and/or injury hazard.  I can tell that this fixture isn't just missing its bottom cover, as there are no screw holes and/or notches to hold a cover in place.

In earlier models of the Brink's fixtures, the bulbs were still unprotected, but they had a bottom cover to contain any fragments.  In this case, however, there is absolutely NOTHING on the bottom.  It is unbelievable to me that any manufacturer would be so negligent as to disregard what is a very critical safety aspect.  It goes to show that in some cases, it really pays to spend extra money for a better (safer) fixture, rather than buying the garbage from Walmart (where these fixtures are sold).  Regardless of this, however, such an issue still seems unacceptable.


See this upload HERE: http://www.lighting-gallery.net/gallery/displayimage.php?album=search&cat=0&pos=0&pid=123801

Other people commented, and I wanted to carry on this topic to others.  Keep this in mind if you come across one of these.

Remember that explosions are really rare. The local Publix is crammed with unprotected MH bulbs with open bottoms, but I have never heard of any explosions happening there.
I wouldn't be concerned. I test my MH bulbs with an unprotected fixture, and it has all gone well.

Remember that explosions are really rare. The local Publix is crammed with unprotected MH bulbs with open bottoms, but I have never heard of any explosions happening there.
I wouldn't be concerned. I test my MH bulbs with an unprotected fixture, and it has all gone well.

This is true; however, I have heard that certain bulbs are a LOT more likely to explode than others.  This is particularly true with lower-wattage, pulse-start bulbs.  In your Publix example, while the bulbs may be unprotected, some are suitable for open fixtures, as long as they are operated base-up (S-Rated, e.g. M59/S, for suitable if operated in the open under specific circumstances).  However, in this case, there is also a picture of the bulb.  The bulb is clearly marked as M90/E, rated for enclosed ONLY. 

I have seen 100W metal halides exploded, both in person, and here on LG.

I have seen plenty of MH explosions. Most are low wattage MH and so I think it is really bad that they are selling these like this. If you want a metal halide yardblaster, go to Fleet Farm and get a Cooper yardblaster. They have enclosed bottoms and are currently $25.

Quote from: wattMaster on August 10, 2016, 10:58:27 PM

Remember that explosions are really rare. The local Publix is crammed with unprotected MH bulbs with open bottoms, but I have never heard of any explosions happening there.
I wouldn't be concerned. I test my MH bulbs with an unprotected fixture, and it has all gone well.

This is true; however, I have heard that certain bulbs are a LOT more likely to explode than others.  This is particularly true with lower-wattage, pulse-start bulbs.  In your Publix example, while the bulbs may be unprotected, some are suitable for open fixtures, as long as they are operated base-up (S-Rated, e.g. M59/S, for suitable if operated in the open under specific circumstances).  However, in this case, there is also a picture of the bulb.  The bulb is clearly marked as M90/E, rated for enclosed ONLY.  

I have seen 100W metal halides exploded, both in person, and here on LG.

My testing is currently for 250 and 400 Watt bulbs, and the ones at Publix have the R rating on them, which means enclosed fixture, I think.

Quote from: Mercury Vapor 456 on August 10, 2016, 11:03:42 PM

Quote from: wattMaster on August 10, 2016, 10:58:27 PM

Remember that explosions are really rare. The local Publix is crammed with unprotected MH bulbs with open bottoms, but I have never heard of any explosions happening there.
I wouldn't be concerned. I test my MH bulbs with an unprotected fixture, and it has all gone well.

This is true; however, I have heard that certain bulbs are a LOT more likely to explode than others.  This is particularly true with lower-wattage, pulse-start bulbs.  In your Publix example, while the bulbs may be unprotected, some are suitable for open fixtures, as long as they are operated base-up (S-Rated, e.g. M59/S, for suitable if operated in the open under specific circumstances).  However, in this case, there is also a picture of the bulb.  The bulb is clearly marked as M90/E, rated for enclosed ONLY.  

I have seen 100W metal halides exploded, both in person, and here on LG.

My testing is currently for 250 and 400 Watt bulbs, and the ones at Publix have the R rating on them, which means enclosed fixture, I think.

@wattMaster: R rated means non-extinguishing (if outer bulb is busted, the arc tube will still operate).  The higher wattage ones, at least in said circumstances, seem to be less prone to violent failure.

Quote from: wattMaster on August 10, 2016, 11:05:36 PM

Quote from: Mercury Vapor 456 on August 10, 2016, 11:03:42 PM

Quote from: wattMaster on August 10, 2016, 10:58:27 PM

Remember that explosions are really rare. The local Publix is crammed with unprotected MH bulbs with open bottoms, but I have never heard of any explosions happening there.
I wouldn't be concerned. I test my MH bulbs with an unprotected fixture, and it has all gone well.

This is true; however, I have heard that certain bulbs are a LOT more likely to explode than others.  This is particularly true with lower-wattage, pulse-start bulbs.  In your Publix example, while the bulbs may be unprotected, some are suitable for open fixtures, as long as they are operated base-up (S-Rated, e.g. M59/S, for suitable if operated in the open under specific circumstances).  However, in this case, there is also a picture of the bulb.  The bulb is clearly marked as M90/E, rated for enclosed ONLY.  

I have seen 100W metal halides exploded, both in person, and here on LG.

My testing is currently for 250 and 400 Watt bulbs, and the ones at Publix have the R rating on them, which means enclosed fixture, I think.

@wattMaster: R rated means non-extinguishing (if outer bulb is busted, the arc tube will still operate).  The higher wattage ones, at least in said circumstances, seem to be less prone to violent failure.

Oops. And I don't see any shatter shield inside the bulbs, at least in the photos.

I have had this discussion many times on UK lighting sites, but everyone that has this debate overlook one thing.
I too have seen many explosions, not only with low wattage, but in 400watts too, but THE only reason halide lamps explode is because the `end user` leaves them running way, way over their rated life!

I have NEVER once seen one explode within its stated hours by its manufacturer, the ones I have always seen shatter in use were running horizontal and at the point of being deep blue and purple in colour!
The lamp in the pic of the post above looks to be a Venture, its also running vertical, (as Venture recommend), so if this lamp was run, and only run within the 15,000 hours Venture give, I don`t see any reason for it to explode?

Again this is just MY observation of halide lamps over the years, and I have 2 Venture halides, (one of 100watt, and one of 400watt) that were run way past their hours, with all sorts of distorted shapes on them, but neither exploded in use, but they should have been changed before they got in that state to begin with.

Think some failure outside the lamp - Ballast shorts out (can be expected eventually with a ballast you get in $25 light), or power supply voltage goes up (lost Neutral). This can make even a good lamp within rated life go bang

The lower wattage bulbs are more prone to explosion, as they operate at way higher pressures than their high wattage counterparts. The reason for the higher pressure is the need to shorten the arc length (to maintain the arc loading for a good efficacy), but keep the overall voltage drop the same (around 80V or so). That means the voltage drop per unity length has to be way higher, so the higher fill pressure.

Is this also true for my Sylvania HSI-TD 70W/D and my Osram HQI-TS 70W/WDL Excellence (My tracklight for them uses a Philips electronic gear rated for CDM lamps)?

The ceramic have lower pressure just because of being ceramic.
For the ballast compatibility: The electrical characteristic QMH vs CMH are nearly equivalent, so it should work well. The normal manufacturing spread and the differences aong makers would be comparable if not greater than QMH vs CMH...

I have had this discussion many times on UK lighting sites, but everyone that has this debate overlook one thing.
I too have seen many explosions, not only with low wattage, but in 400watts too, but THE only reason halide lamps explode is because the `end user` leaves them running way, way over their rated life!

I have NEVER once seen one explode within its stated hours by its manufacturer, the ones I have always seen shatter in use were running horizontal and at the point of being deep blue and purple in colour!
The lamp in the pic of the post above looks to be a Venture, its also running vertical, (as Venture recommend), so if this lamp was run, and only run within the 15,000 hours Venture give, I don`t see any reason for it to explode?

Again this is just MY observation of halide lamps over the years, and I have 2 Venture halides, (one of 100watt, and one of 400watt) that were run way past their hours, with all sorts of distorted shapes on them, but neither exploded in use, but they should have been changed before they got in that state to begin with.

Once a yardblaster gets installed it is almost always forever neglected and you can count on the lamp being way overdriven its rated life.

Quote from: AngryHorse on August 11, 2016, 01:48:31 AM

I have had this discussion many times on UK lighting sites, but everyone that has this debate overlook one thing.
I too have seen many explosions, not only with low wattage, but in 400watts too, but THE only reason halide lamps explode is because the `end user` leaves them running way, way over their rated life!

I have NEVER once seen one explode within its stated hours by its manufacturer, the ones I have always seen shatter in use were running horizontal and at the point of being deep blue and purple in colour!
The lamp in the pic of the post above looks to be a Venture, its also running vertical, (as Venture recommend), so if this lamp was run, and only run within the 15,000 hours Venture give, I don`t see any reason for it to explode?

Again this is just MY observation of halide lamps over the years, and I have 2 Venture halides, (one of 100watt, and one of 400watt) that were run way past their hours, with all sorts of distorted shapes on them, but neither exploded in use, but they should have been changed before they got in that state to begin with.

Once a yardblaster gets installed it is almost always forever neglected and you can count on the lamp being way overdriven its rated life.

That's the case with all of them here.

Even on private installations?, you would think whoever would choose MH as outside lighting, would at least know something about the `do`s and don`ts` involved with running them?, and know how to look after it?