Can you pull PEX pipe out of a fitting and put it back in? We are asking this because we are renovating our bathroom, and when we remove PEX pipe, it gets scratched, so is it safe to put it back in?

I would say as long as the scratches are shallow surface abrasions it should be ok.

Could deburring help?

What I was expecting and just have confirmed here , it is not recommended to just insert it back. You should cut the end affected by the connection and do the new connection on a fresh part of the tube.
The problems are mainly the imprints on the sealing surface. Once there are any, it won't seal anymore.

What I was expecting and just have confirmed here , it is not recommended to just insert it back. You should cut the end affected by the connection and do the new connection on a fresh part of the tube.
The problems are mainly the imprints on the sealing surface. Once there are any, it won't seal anymore.

Is this for compression fitting?

There are many fittings for these tubes. The compression use inner surface for sealing, the push-in outer surface.
The compression are cheaper, but need a special crimping tool.
For your case when you want to reuse older tubes I'm not sure, which would be more reliable:
The outer surface may have been contaminated or damaged as it was exposed all the time, what may compromise the push in connections.
On the other hand some staining may have deposited on the inn er tube surface from the water as it was used, what may compromise the compression types.
It really depend, in what state are the tubes, what are the possibility to clean/smoothen each of the surfaces.

There are many fittings for these tubes. The compression use inner surface for sealing, the push-in outer surface.
The compression are cheaper, but need a special crimping tool.
For your case when you want to reuse older tubes I'm not sure, which would be more reliable:
The outer surface may have been contaminated or damaged as it was exposed all the time, what may compromise the push in connections.
On the other hand some staining may have deposited on the inn er tube surface from the water as it was used, what may compromise the compression types.
It really depend, in what state are the tubes, what are the possibility to clean/smoothen each of the surfaces.

We're using Shark-Bite Push-In fittings, which need no crimping tool.

We're using Shark-Bite Push-In fittings, which need no crimping tool.

Then the outer surface of the tube is what matter, so at least the section inside of the fitting has to be smooth, without any kinks or indents or so.
I don't know if those fittings have any means for tube release, but even when so, if it was sitting in one position for long time, I wouldn't expect it to remain reliable connection when you remove the tube and then insert it back. We have at work something like that for a pressurized air installation and all spots, which they have not fit on the final place the first time are leaking (in case of the air it is just a bit of noise, so "temporarily" it was assumed as acceptable; well, it is whistling there already for 4'th year, but that is another story)

So when you removing the old connection, do it  carefully so you don't touch the last 1" section from the fitting with any tools, so you won't create any indents or so there (if you have to force-grap the tube by some jaws or so, do that further away from the old fitting).
Then cut the end that has been inserted in the old fitting (that is indented by the jaws and so won't seal anymore) and clean it by a cloth or so from the accumulated dirt. So now you should have about 1" of nice, smooth tube end to form the new seal.

Quote from: wattMaster on July 31, 2016, 05:43:25 PM

We're using Shark-Bite Push-In fittings, which need no crimping tool.

Then the outer surface of the tube is what matter, so at least the section inside of the fitting has to be smooth, without any kinks or indents or so.
I don't know if those fittings have any means for tube release, but even when so, if it was sitting in one position for long time, I wouldn't expect it to remain reliable connection when you remove the tube and then insert it back. We have at work something like that for a pressurized air installation and all spots, which they have not fit on the final place the first time are leaking (in case of the air it is just a bit of noise, so "temporarily" it was assumed as acceptable; well, it is whistling there already for 4'th year, but that is another story)

So when you removing the old connection, do it  carefully so you don't touch the last 1" section from the fitting with any tools, so you won't create any indents or so there (if you have to force-grap the tube by some jaws or so, do that further away from the old fitting).
Then cut the end that has been inserted in the old fitting (that is indented by the jaws and so won't seal anymore) and clean it by a cloth or so from the accumulated dirt. So now you should have about 1" of nice, smooth tube end to form the new seal.

To remove it, we use this little plastic clip thing that goes around the pipe and pushes on a section of the fitting to release it.

To remove it, we use this little plastic clip thing that goes around the pipe and pushes on a section of the fitting to release it.

What you describe is fittings that do feature the release mechanism, so I assume except really the ends, where the tube was inserted into the fitting, the tube should remain pretty intact. So just cut off the last inch (where the indents from the fitting are) and it should work well...

Quote from: wattMaster on August 01, 2016, 09:05:29 AM

To remove it, we use this little plastic clip thing that goes around the pipe and pushes on a section of the fitting to release it.

What you describe is fittings that do feature the release mechanism, so I assume except really the ends, where the tube was inserted into the fitting, the tube should remain pretty intact. So just cut off the last inch (where the indents from the fitting are) and it should work well...

Good advice, but only if the situation allows for it.