AngryHorse
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Rich, Coaster junkie!
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I know what you mean, but I wouldn`t mind a few of them, we can only get the 2700K ones here at the minute! All mine in the house are Sylvanias quality ones 
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Current: UK 230V, 50Hz Power provider: e.on energy Street lighting in our town: Philips UniStreet LED (gen 1) Longest serving LED in service at home, (hour count): Energetic mini clear globe: 57,746 hrs @ 15/12/24
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Ash
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For home use there is no practical difference between any lamps that are allready at 50 Lm/W or higher :
For example CFLs are about 60..Lm/W. This means that for 1200Lm (quite good lighting level for a room) the CFL required would be 20W
Lets say you switch to 12W Filament LED with same output, that means you save 8W
8W * 6 hours/day * 365.25 days/year * $0.15/KWh = about $2.60 saved a year. This is tiny expense, that for the home user (who uses most of the electricity for various home appliances aand not lighting) is not detectable compared to the rest of the electrical bill. So even if this pays for itself, the home user won't bother to save what he can't see...
As for me, I stay with good Fluorescents (and CFLs) that provide good qality, good looking, and healthy light, and $2.60 (or more) is not whats going to change this
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wattMaster
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For home use there is no practical difference between any lamps that are allready at 50 Lm/W or higher :
For example CFLs are about 60..Lm/W. This means that for 1200Lm (quite good lighting level for a room) the CFL required would be 20W
Lets say you switch to 12W Filament LED with same output, that means you save 8W
8W * 6 hours/day * 365.25 days/year * $0.15/KWh = about $2.60 saved a year. This is tiny expense, that for the home user (who uses most of the electricity for various home appliances aand not lighting) is not detectable compared to the rest of the electrical bill. So even if this pays for itself, the home user won't bother to save what he can't see...
As for me, I stay with good Fluorescents (and CFLs) that provide good qality, good looking, and healthy light, and $2.60 (or more) is not whats going to change this
Well, the savings are substantial if you get, say, 100 of these.
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AngryHorse
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Rich, Coaster junkie!
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Yeah, it depends on what light levels you want also, I use to go way over the top, with silly bright CFLs, at 35watts! The drop down to 7watt filament LED was a big difference at first, but you get use to seeing it when the whole house is lit with the same lamp type. I knocked off almost 900watts total lighting load from all the different `mix and match` lamps I use to run.
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Current: UK 230V, 50Hz Power provider: e.on energy Street lighting in our town: Philips UniStreet LED (gen 1) Longest serving LED in service at home, (hour count): Energetic mini clear globe: 57,746 hrs @ 15/12/24
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wattMaster
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Yeah, it depends on what light levels you want also, I use to go way over the top, with silly bright CFLs, at 35watts! The drop down to 7watt filament LED was a big difference at first, but you get use to seeing it when the whole house is lit with the same lamp type. I knocked off almost 900watts total lighting load from all the different `mix and match` lamps I use to run.
We like it bright, we have a chandelier with 6 60 watt incandescents in a small room!
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Ash
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The question this rises is, if you are ok with the lower light levels, why didnt you use lower power lights allready then, before the LEDs ?
In my home, it is more or less : - CFLs in parent's "traditional" luminaires (that used to be Incandescent, 2 were linear Halogen that i converted to E27 to put in CFLs) - PL-S for my low power lighting needs (my room overhead) - 36W T8 for higher power lighting needs (kitchen over cabinets, ..) - Still Incandescents where switched on rarely or for short time (corridors, toilet, closets, ..)
All are chosen for the application, both by light output and color temperature
It was big saving when switching from Incandescents to CFLs in the mid 00's, but i am absolutely clueless how any significant additional savings can be reached in home lighting by switchng from CFLs to anything else. The CFLs simply draw low enough power as they are, so the headroom for any would-be additional savings is not high
One of my parents luminaires is a chandelier that used to be 5 x 60 GLS, now uses 13W 6500K CFLs. It is switched on by 2 circuits (3 lamps + 2 lamps), parents usually switch on all 5 lamps, i switch on part when only i use the lighting
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wattMaster
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The question this rises is, if you are ok with the lower light levels, why didnt you use lower power lights allready then, before the LEDs ?
In my home, it is more or less : - CFLs in parent's "traditional" luminaires (that used to be Incandescent, 2 were linear Halogen that i converted to E27 to put in CFLs) - PL-S for my low power lighting needs (my room overhead) - 36W T8 for higher power lighting needs (kitchen over cabinets, ..) - Still Incandescents where switched on rarely or for short time (corridors, toilet, closets, ..)
All are chosen for the application, both by light output and color temperature
It was big saving when switching from Incandescents to CFLs in the mid 00's, but i am absolutely clueless how any significant additional savings can be reached in home lighting by switchng from CFLs to anything else. The CFLs simply draw low enough power as they are, so the headroom for any would-be additional savings is not high
One of my parents luminaires is a chandelier that used to be 5 x 60 GLS, now uses 13W 6500K CFLs. It is switched on by 2 circuits (3 lamps + 2 lamps), parents usually switch on all 5 lamps, i switch on part when only i use the lighting
Problems with those lighting choices here: Pl - "Too hard to use and it looks ugly!" CFL - "EEK! Mercury! I don't like that tube shape." Linear fluorescent - "Too ugly, that's industrial lighting, not for homes!" Incandescent - "Too inefficient." These are general opinions that seem to be the norm here, but I would never think of these opinions for these lighting technologies.
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AngryHorse
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Rich, Coaster junkie!
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Its more of an experimentation with me, when I moved in, (1995), I fitted 2 foot twin fluorescent all over the house!, but as I got older, I started to dislike that `cold`, low pressure mercury discharge ambience, you tend to get with tubes. Over the years I swapped over to CFL, of all different sizes, but again, as with any mercury discharge, you still get that cold UV output, even with 2700K colours.
Then I started to pop the odd LED in, but they were the early ones with the SMT, downward only facing diodes, (at this point the filament type were only just starting to come out, and were silly dear, or poorly made Chinese ones), it was only when Sylvania had perfected it, and had them out for sale to the home owner, I decided to change ALL of them.
I know LED are not really favoured by lighting enthusiasts as of yet, but the filament design, I really do think is the future of lighting, when the cooling gas is perfected, so they can make bigger and bigger sizes, I reckon we will start to see filament tech than can perform at HID level?
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Current: UK 230V, 50Hz Power provider: e.on energy Street lighting in our town: Philips UniStreet LED (gen 1) Longest serving LED in service at home, (hour count): Energetic mini clear globe: 57,746 hrs @ 15/12/24
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sol
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... I started to dislike that `cold`, low pressure mercury discharge ambience, you tend to get with tubes. Over the years I swapped over to CFL, of all different sizes, but again, as with any mercury discharge, you still get that cold UV output, even with 2700K colours.
Do you see that 'cold UV output" with metal halide (I'm thinking CMH here) as well ? I find them to be quite different from fluorescent but cannot explain why.
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wattMaster
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... I started to dislike that `cold`, low pressure mercury discharge ambience, you tend to get with tubes. Over the years I swapped over to CFL, of all different sizes, but again, as with any mercury discharge, you still get that cold UV output, even with 2700K colours.
Do you see that 'cold UV output" with metal halide (I'm thinking CMH here) as well ? I find them to be quite different from fluorescent but cannot explain why.
Maybe because of the bright light? Or that the spectrum is more filled in? Or that the CRI is higher?
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wattMaster
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Update: Remember that failed LED bulb? It magically fixed itself!  So no LED bulbs have failed yet.
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« Last Edit: June 28, 2016, 01:05:29 PM by wattMaster »
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Solanaceae
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All photos are brought to you by Bubby industries.
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Interesting, sounds like a loose solder joint.
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Me💡Irl My LG Gallery My GoL Gallery
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wattMaster
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Interesting, sounds like a loose solder joint.
I thought it was a driver issue because it was constantly flashing at a constant rate.
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Medved
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Interesting, sounds like a loose solder joint.
I thought it was a driver issue because it was constantly flashing at a constant rate.
Well, could be a loose solder joint inside of the ballast, there are many of them... The cycling then came from heat: Colder -> operates; Warms up -> looses connection...
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No more selfballasted c***
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AngryHorse
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Rich, Coaster junkie!
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... I started to dislike that `cold`, low pressure mercury discharge ambience, you tend to get with tubes. Over the years I swapped over to CFL, of all different sizes, but again, as with any mercury discharge, you still get that cold UV output, even with 2700K colours.
Do you see that 'cold UV output" with metal halide (I'm thinking CMH here) as well ? I find them to be quite different from fluorescent but cannot explain why.
I know what you mean, I think its the `sharpness` of light from a CMH, but I only see it in fluorescent?, must be something to do with low pressure mercury discharges?
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Current: UK 230V, 50Hz Power provider: e.on energy Street lighting in our town: Philips UniStreet LED (gen 1) Longest serving LED in service at home, (hour count): Energetic mini clear globe: 57,746 hrs @ 15/12/24
Welcome to OBLIVION
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