I am wondering if anyone can provide me with some information. recently I purchased a westinghouse street light fixture the shade is missing (if anyone can tell me where I could obtain one it would be greatly appreciated) but the main question I have is: since there are no specification stickers left on the fixture and there was no bulb in it, how could I definetly determine if it is a mercury vapour or high pressure sodium unit? the fixture is completley round and just about flat on top. inside there is a for and a half to five inch capacitor, a ballast and a standard household base socket. the only thing I know about it is it is a westinghouse because it is stamped with the westinghouse symbol on the housing. can anyone tell me how I can know for sure? I can't purchase a bulb for it until I find out what what kind of fixture it is. (i'm pretty sure the shade was round and flat on the bottom i've been told it  could be a NEMA bucket type but i'm not sure.) any ideas anyone? thanks.

How many wires are coming out of the  capacitor?

there are two red wires coming out of the capacitor

All capacitors & ballasts are marked in some way, no matter. If capacitors are completely rusty, you can sand it down a little at a time where you suspect the marks are, periodically checking to read them. These markings will always tell you exactly what you need. Is there a pic of the unit somewhere yet?

I'll try to find any markings or numbers on the capacitor. I can tell you the capacitor is about 4 to 4 and a half inches long. I took a bunch of pictures with my digital camera but I wish I knew how to upload them. once someone tells me how I'll post some.

If you're a member (looks like you ARE), just log in. Start from HERE, then create albums in My Gallery at the top left. (Not posting the link as each member has a unique gallery number). Then CLICK UPLOAD, and click on the "Browse.." button, one for each pic on your PC/Laptop. Once upped, you'll need to add info as prompted.

But the easiest method is to post here. When you click on REPLY to any of these messages, a dialogue box appears to add your reply PLUS a "Browse.." button to attach files. For more pics click on the (more attachments) link. When done, compose your message, then simply Post!

I managed to get some numbers by sanding down the capacitor. this is what was stamped on it:  YORK westinghouse 512502G05    11.5 MFD. 550 VAC   49-70          also a small sticker was lying in the inside that I'm sure came off the ballast. it reads: westinghouse canada granby, quebec    77c      date207p94oh  G  Ho3     125ARO1  120  OCV 235  HZ 60     lamp H42 125w    TYPE AUTOTRFO   there is someting written before the 125ARO1 and the 120 but I can't make it out. I might decifer it if I can find a magnifying glass. Does any of this information help any?

sorry I meant decipher.

125w mercury vapor (H42) lamp (probably CWA) ballast! Nice score. I've seen 9.5 & 10 mFD also at this wattage. The capacitor is however rated for 550volts (it's high) so your ballast may have a number of taps, usually for canuck made ballasts that's 120v-277v-347v. BUT, according to the info on that label it's clearly 120volts with OCV (i.e. the starting probe voltage) 235Volts.

So, on the ballast, black will be 120volts hot. Is your capacitor wired? For sure one pole should be connected to the ballast (cap), the other goes to the Eye (center) of the Lamp socket. The COM (white) goes to the Lamp shell. And I believe there should also be a COM to the ballast. Green goes to one of the bored holes on the laminated metal ballast (put a bolt through it w/nut).

How many wires coming out of your ballast?

I drew a complete wiring diagram of the fixture so I can now tell you exactly how many wires are in the entire fixture and exactly where they all go. all the wires in the entire fixture are either black, red or white. (no green) the ballast has 5 terminals on it (the small connections where the wires simply press on)  the first (black)exits the ballast and goes to a connection on a white plastic terminal block inside the unit.    the second (white) exits the ballast and branches into two wires (both also white) one connects to the terminal block and the other half goes to the bulb socket.  the third wire (red) exits the ballast and goes to the capacitor.    the last wire (white) exits one side of the ballast and simply connects to a terminal on the opposite side of the ballast. anything else you need to know about any of the other wires (photocell, capacitor , terminal block or socket just let me know and I can tell you no problem) the capacitor has two red wires coming out of it the first, like I mentioned above, goes to the ballast and the second red one goes into a white plastic wire connector and a white wire exits this plastic wire connector and goes to the socket. the only other wires in the entire unit are 3 short wires (red, black and white) that go from the photocell to the white plastic terminal block. that's about it. Is this fixture definetly a mercury vapour type unit? (just want to be sure before I order a bulb for it) I hope this information helps and I want to say thanks for all your help!  awaiting your reply.

You know the history of the light? Was it opened up by someone else? Unless that loose sticker which says H42 @ 120volts came from some other fixture, then this is a 125w Mercury vapor light. The 11.5mfd capacitor is a bit off however, maybe someone else can confirm that the value is correct or adequate.

Sounds prewired in a neat & tidy manner. The wires from the photocell are also connected from what you said. You'll need a photocontrol (as currently wired).

You simply need to pay attention to the terminal block. 3 nuts allow you to uscrew or screw down to crimp wires fed into it. Or if tabs are connected, same thing (You may have 4 spots on the terminal block):

CONFIRM that the black wire from the photocell is ALONE: This is the spot to connect the black 120volts from your power.

CONFIRM that the Black from the ballast is connected w/the Red from photocell!

CONFIRM that the cap wires are connected as you describe: One side to the ballast & other to the eye-center of socket.

CONNECT the white (Common) from 120v power to the white bundle on terminal block (or to any LOOSE white wire you find).

Lastly CONNECT green of your power to either the metal frame of fixture or an EMPTY spot on the terminal. Any wires connected from opposite sides on any terminal spot are actually connected together. Green from the wall outlet must be connected alone.

Now if your ballast was wired for any other volts (277v or 347v taps) then nothing will happen when you plug into your wall (with a lamp & photocontrol in place). Then you'll simply have to find & change the tab to the lowest (120v) ballast tap. But your label said 120v.

thanks for the information! I remember now that the sticker definetly does belong to the ballast because it was just barely stuck on and I touched it and it fell off. now I just have to order a bulb online. I found a place that sells them: elightbulbs the bulb I am planning on ordering is a Westinghouse mercury vapour HID  bulb 100 watt E17 medium screw (E26) base -white light output 4300 lumens. I'm hoping the bulb is not self-ballasted it doesn't say it is so I'm assuming it's not. would this bulb be suitable for this fixture? please let me know.A buddy of mine who used to work for the utilites in ontario is going to come over and test the ballast and the capacitor with a multimeter, soon hopefully. now I just have to find a shade for the fixture. any ideas where I could find one? thanks.

I forgot to mention, I found a couple of photocontrols that fit at the scrapyard(hopefully they work)

It should work but 100w will be overdriven. Best is to select 125w, like the well made EYE Electric 125w MV lamps. Try ebay, there are lamps available even for 125w H42. It's also nice to keep this fixture as it was intended at 125watts! E26 is medium base which is the same size as household sockets. Your fixture will tell you exactly what socket you need.

Mildly interesting that the ballast would be CWA and 125w MV. I know a Canadian member (Vince) who has a 125w CWA MV and the cap vaue was 10uf, like with American 100w CWA sets. Did the capacitor have spade terminals?