Author Topic: Does a new CFL require a run in period to get to the rated CCT or Color Temp  (Read 1827 times)
LampLover
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Does a new CFL require a run in period to get to the rated CCT or Color Temp « on: October 27, 2015, 09:16:12 PM » Author: LampLover
I purchased 3 packs of the HomeDepot Ecosmart (2 packs of 60W Equivalent and 1 pack of 100W equivalent) "Bright White" 3500K
I bought them a few days ago and they look more like "Cool White" 3900K-4100K I have a USA made GE Cool White in my desk magnifier lamp and the color of the new CFLS are almost exactly a match
I also have a Philips PL-L fixture with 835 lamps and compared to the new CFLS they are alot "warmer" in color
So do the phosphors require a break in period or are the lamps just mismarked? (I don't know if they even sell Cool White Ecosmart CFLS)
The base of the lamps are marked as such "3500K"
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dor123
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Re: Does a new CFL require a run in period to get to the rated CCT or Color Temp « Reply #1 on: October 28, 2015, 12:23:52 AM » Author: dor123
CFLs don't requires a running period for their CCT to stablize like probe-start MH lamps, but color temperature of all triphosphors fluorescent lamps do decrease (4000K turning 3500K, 6500K to 5000K) through lamp life as different phosphors degrades.
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Re: Does a new CFL require a run in period to get to the rated CCT or Color Temp « Reply #2 on: October 29, 2015, 01:21:32 AM » Author: Medved
This may be a result of the lamp operating at a higher temperature than designed for: In that case the higher pressure makes the bluish-green from the discharge relatively stronger to the part generated from the UV. Second effect related to the temperature is the shift of the phosphor radiation towards the shorter wavelengths.
The higher temperature could be either inadequate ventilation in the fixture (the fixture thermal design may count on the majority of the heat from the incandescents coming as an IR radiation and just let this pass out, while majority of heat from the fluorescents is convection and that lead to excessive heat accumulation within the fixture; and the incandescents have generally less problems with high temperature, so the fixture may be just designed to operate that hotter, but the fluorescents already degrade their performance).

Or it could be just the fact the design count on the mercury to migrate to the lowest (so usually coldest) spot in the tube, until then the pressure could be higher than designed. If this is the case, it will require some time to settle, to adopt the exact burning position of the lamp.
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