I recently found out about electronic pulse starters through a video made by DieselDucy and how they work on 120v 60hz AC found in the USA.

Has anyone bought these starters from the ebay seller below?

Which kind are they? The ones in DieselDucy's video are EFS120's I think.

Do they work for all wattages of tubes found in the USA? The video only showed short/wattage tubes using it.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/350161463038?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

The EFS120 is a 4-22W starter. At 220-240V it can be used in series operation of two tubes and two starters on one ballast, but in america, it can be used only in single operation of one tube.
Here is a video of my two EFS120 pulse starters, that FSB sent me, inside my 2xF6T5/BL bug zapper, in operation.

The EFS120 is a 4-22W starter. At 220-240V it can be used in series operation of two tubes and two starters on one ballast, but in america, it can be used only in single operation of one tube.
Here is a video of my two EFS120 pulse starters, that FSB sent me, inside my 2xF6T5/BL bug zapper, in operation.

So that means no using the EFS120's on 4ft 40w tubes except if there's a separate ballast for each tube right? But if there's a ballast per tube then it works with any wattage?

What about the EFS600's? http://www.arlen-efa.co.uk/pages/product_detail.asp?ProductID=7

or the LEL tabelek fastlux 300C? http://www.tabelek.co.uk/product-300C-fastlux-electronic-fluorescent-tube-starter.asp

These starters are rated to 220-240V. They aren't suitable for 120V.
EFS120 is for up to 22W T9 circular fluorescent lamp. It isn't suitable for 40W fluorescent lamp.

For the F40T12 tubes you need both the higher voltage starter AND higher OCV (120V mains is not enough).
So the "220-240V single" starters (e.g. the EFS600) would be OK, plus you need the ballast with an OCV at least 200V.
I would guess the originally designed "preheat" ballast would fulfill that.
For two F40 in series you would need two "220-240V single" starters and an OCV of at least 400V.

The starter (not only the electronic) suitability is given by two limits:
The ballast OCV should be above the starter trigger voltage, so the starter will reliably kick in. Two starters in series of course means twice the voltage
And the second limit is, the lamp arc voltage, include the reignition peaks, shall be well below the starter trigger voltage, to make sure the starter does not interfere with burning lamp.


With some electronic designs you may "violate" the second rule - e.g. use a Philips S2e starter (the "4..22W" type) with an F30T8 or a 32W T9 circline (<100v arc lamps) on an series LC ballast on 120V mains.
It is, when the starter has a time out function, which keep the starter OFF regardless of the voltage after some period of time. Normally this feature is there to give up starting attempts on a bad  lamp, but here it may serve as well as part of the main startup sequence. The only drawback is, after switching the lamp OFF you have to wait some time for this feature to reset and allow new starting sequence.