Roi_hartmann
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What I see the biggest problem in LED lighting is that there are not so many standarts. Every manufacturer has its own implemention. Its great in that sense that manufacturers have more freely hands to build lighting fixtures in desing they like to but if you think about maintenance thats terrible thing. Most consumer grade fixtures and home lighs are hard or impossible to repair as spare parts are not available. In home envirioment LED can last long but still theres gonna be time when something fails and you have to throw whole thing to trash. In older light sources, you would be okay with buying new lamp or ballast. in otherwords, there is no any standart wattages and sizes or shapes or anything in LED elements nor LED driver as far as Ive heard. this has some pros but many cons. Old lamp bases like edison screw is something I think should be forgot when talking LEDs as its not working well with those(as mentioned above posts) For some reason I have a hunch that most manufacturers(especially new ones) does not want to have any kind of standart cause I would guess that would help old big names (like philips, osram, GE) to regain more controll over LED light manufacturing. This is just my opinion and some guessin. Feel free to disagree
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Aamulla aurinko, illalla AIRAM
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global_tech_led_FAIL
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Be very careful with this company, their products are susceptible to high heat failure that the manufacturer will not warranty for. Stay away!
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LampLover
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Be very careful with this company, their products are susceptible to high heat failure that the manufacturer will not warranty for. Stay away!
I am not surprised about that As when I tested the LED module I was given I noticed that they do in fact get very hot to the touch almost too hot to hold my hand on the heat sink They almost run as hot as the Metal Halide that they replaced
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LED Free Zone! All For HID, magnetic rapid-start Preheat & old-school electronic Only (no instant start F17T8 & F32T8 allowed)
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RyanF40T12
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Starting to see a high conversion rate going on here from HPS to LEDs on the streetlights. All new communities being built have LEDs now here in Colorado as well. As highway on and off ramp lights burn out they are being replaced with LEDs.
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The more you hate the LED movement, the stronger it becomes.
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RichD
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I'm seeing them all over Queens, NY now. Our DOT is replacing what appeared to be perfectly-functioning HPS street lights with LED's
To me this seems such a waste.
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Luminaire
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It's usually the driver that has issues, which is practically the same as HF control gear except that it is rectified first.
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LampLover
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Yes it is just the driver that has the issues In just under a year about 6 (Six) of the driver units have failed The LED module it self is fine it is just driver units that are failing They are using the Global Tech "house brand" drivers labeled Eulife Global Tech LAV240S60HM9 PS: Does anyone know if the fan on that Solstice M21 unit is temperature controlled? I can power up the unit (With 2 12Volt SLA batteries in series I don't have a proper 24VDC supply but the batteries are fully charged) and the fan will spin for about 5 seconds and then shut down, I have not ran it long enough to find out if it will turn on when the module heats up Edit: OK so I answered my own question The fan IS temperature controlled I am surprised that Global Tech does not mention this anywhere on their website or in any literature about the Solstice M21 unit I ran the unit for about 5 minutes and the fan finally came on when the heatsink was 125 F (Measured with my IR Thermometer)
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« Last Edit: March 05, 2015, 07:27:54 PM by LampLover »
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LED Free Zone! All For HID, magnetic rapid-start Preheat & old-school electronic Only (no instant start F17T8 & F32T8 allowed)
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Solanaceae
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LEDisease hasn't stricken my area, but it is spreading like wildfire down in Florida. The manufacturers need to get their heads out of their butts, and actually do more research, instead of sticking crappy parts on a crappier circuit board and calling it a driver circuit.
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Ash
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I am silently glad that they are so crappy, this fact brakes the spread of the disease in a way
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Solanaceae
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I think their crappiness is keeping at bay for now here, all of the street lights are either merc or HPS. Also, a lot of people around my area still use the original high bay merc installments in their shops. As long as I contain the neighbors, who have LEDisease, my area will be fine. I hate to say this, but I'm actually happy to see a CFL in use. Just as long as the LEDs are at bay, that's what matters.
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Ash
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What is bad about CFLs ?
They are a crossing of the benefits of fluorescent (light quality, efficiency, lower cost then HID) with the ability to work in any plain 120V (or 240V) socket. Sure there is some tradeoff to make it happen, but it is made for a purpose and satisfies the purpose well
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Solanaceae
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Over here in the US, CFLs are cheaply made imported from China. The electronic ballast can catch fire when at EOL, so I am concerned when I see one of my CFLs are about to die. I had one Pop and take out the circuit breaker.
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Ash
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I have yet to see a modern CFL that is NOT made in China....
My experience with CFL EOL's so far....
At my home (nearly all the lanterns that are under my parents control, so most ceiling lights, are ex-incandescent and are with CFLs nowadays) :
"Cheap but fair" hardware shop brands : - Few : black end of tube, won't light anymore
- Couple : melted-in hole near the EOL cathode, lost vacuum, nothing else happened. One of them cracked the tube at the melted hole after i took it out of the socket
- Few : i noticed blackening near cathode, took out of service before EOL (that was in a lantern that had a matter lamp shade that my parents use, i was wary of the possibility of the CFL failing as you describe and catching the shade on fire. I have since put an incandescent lamp in that lampshade)
- 1 lamp : started intermittently flickering a bit (a flick or two and back to normal light, like in haunted house). took out of service before EOL
- 1 lamp : right out of the box would sometimes not come on at all (no glow, no nothing) when switched on.
Very cheap flea shop brand : - 1 lamp : black end of tube, won't light anymore
Cheap (but not the cheapest possible) hardware shop brand : - 1 lamp : lasted exactly 2 days, at the 2nd day when i switched it on it lit at half brightness and made some arcing sounds and filled the house with smell of burned electronics. Needless to say that was the first and last one from that brand i bought
Philips Genie : - 1 lamp : black end of tube, won't light anymore
Osram twist : - Few lamps : came on for 1 second at switch on, and died for good, no dramatic failure
GE tiny 9W : - 1 lamp : Lasted for 9 years in an enclosed lantern. started dimming one day, next day would just glow in the ends, no dramatic failure
Currently in my home i buy only Osrams, the lamps in use are mostly Osrams and there are couple of remaining "cheap but fair" type
From other places i remember only when stuff happened, there must have been many more lamps used there that didnt make any of that.....
At friend's : "Cheap but fair" hardware shop brand, ballast casing exploded when switched on, ballast PCB and tube remained hanging on the wires
At a dorm room : Very cheap flea shop brand, i walk into room, its dark (and the light is usually left on). Flip the switch (its 3 way, so dont know whether the power is on or off) - nothing happens. Lamp was in an enclosed lantern so overheated over its life
I went to replace it. Open the diffuser of the lantern, smell strong smell of burning electronics and feel the hot air on my face. Ballast housing plastic was scorching hot to touch, and it cracked and powdered in my hand as soon as i touched it, leaving the ballast and tube hanging on the wires. I switched off the breaker to unscrew this from the socket, as i could not be sure whether the 3 way switches are now on or off
While at that, i have seen (actually, i caused them myself) a couple explosive EOL's of LED lamps at friend's. Those were Ebay LEDs and i somehow decided to try holding the switch in a center position, where it arcs in series with the lamp. First one exploded within 2 seconds (loud bang and puff of smoke coming from a gap in the ballast housing). Then he screwed in the next one, but the switch remained in the "arc" position, so 2 seconds after he plugged it back in (it was a desk lamp), 2nd LED exploded the same way
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Solanaceae
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My CFLs EOL One sulvania lamp that ran nearly 24/7 for at least five years. It was in service at a friends granny's house I was helping clean. I ranit on and off for a few days and an electrode went open. A great value Wal mart cfl that strobes violently for 10 minutes and quietly open went an electrode. Three that were pulled out from the house bathrooms that were severely blackened, electrodes went open. One that electrodes went open prematurely due to use in garaje opener.
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LampLover
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I had a Sylvania 3500K (My favorite fluorescent color) 23W mini CFL that went EOL one day It started off dim as always and I thought nothing of it. It then stayed dimmer then the other in the two bulb table lamp but still I thought nothing of it Later that evening I smelled a burning electronics smell that I could not pinpoint and at the time I forgot of that CFL. about an hour latter I heard a small pop (I assume a capacitor went) and the lamp was out when I took it out of the lamp it was not any hotter then normal but now it will not light and the ballast base had a piece rattling inside.
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LED Free Zone! All For HID, magnetic rapid-start Preheat & old-school electronic Only (no instant start F17T8 & F32T8 allowed)
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