BG101
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EYE H80 Mercury Vapour
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I just wondered if there was any ![Huh? ???](/Smileys/default/huh.gif) - I also don't see why they have gone to the trouble of marketing several very similar wattages for SOX lamps (e.g. SOX 35 & SOX-E 36W, SOX 90 & SOX-E 91W) .. unless the E-versions are designed to run on ballasts for higher wattage lamps? Sorry for what must be daft questions! BG
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dor123
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http://www.lamptech.co.uk/SOX.htmRead the comparison table between the SOI Integral, SOX Original, SOX Re-rated and SOX-E.
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I"m don't speak English well, and rely on online translating to write in this site. Please forgive me if my choice of my words looks like offensive, while that isn't my intention.
I only working with the international date format (dd.mm.yyyy).
I lives in Israel, which is a 220-240V, 50hz country.
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BG101
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EYE H80 Mercury Vapour
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That's really informative but doesn't show the difference between the 18W SOX and SOX-E lamps, however I will examine my lamps later and see if there's a difference in the IR reflective layer between the Philips and Osram lamps. I wonder if the Philips lamp has a higher light output?
I should compare two lamps together to see if my old light meter can detect a difference .. or get it from the camera as that will also show up differences in light levels. I don't know how to access/read the EXIF data though.
BG
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« Last Edit: May 26, 2013, 01:18:58 PM by BG101 »
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AngryHorse
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Rich, Coaster junkie!
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There is no difference, the 18watt SOX came out with a brown cap, (standard), but later, when the economy range came out, the 18watt was added to them and given a black cap,(economy), but they are exactly the same lamp. Funny enough, most have Red caps, (longlife plus), now!!, appart from the PSG, (blue cap), lamps that are impossable to get hold of without paying a small fortune! ![Shocked :o](/Smileys/default/shocked.gif)
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Current: UK 230V, 50Hz Power provider: e.on energy Street lighting in our town: Philips UniStreet LED (gen 1) Longest serving LED in service at home, (hour count): Energetic mini clear globe: 57,746 hrs @ 15/12/24
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James
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The original SOX 18W had no auxiliary ignition electrode, but this was added on the SOX-E 18W in the form of electrifying the IR coating via a small ceramic capacitor connected to one electrode. This allows the SOX-E 18W to run on simpler and slightly more efficient control gear. The lamp efficacy is the same, but the system efficacy is better for certain kinds of control gear that can run SOX-E. I did not know this at the time I wrote the page referred to above, I shall endeavour to make an addition when time permits!
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Ash
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How is the coating connected ? Or is it by itself the 2nd plate of he capacitor ?
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dor123
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Is the coating makes the SOX-E 18W, a self-starting LPS lamp, that can start from plain 230V with a simple choke? (LPS lamps that operates on an autoleak transformer, don't needs ignitors or starters to start, but aren't considered "Self-starting", since they still starting at a higher voltage than the mains)
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I"m don't speak English well, and rely on online translating to write in this site. Please forgive me if my choice of my words looks like offensive, while that isn't my intention.
I only working with the international date format (dd.mm.yyyy).
I lives in Israel, which is a 220-240V, 50hz country.
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Medved
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How is the coating connected ? Or is it by itself the 2nd plate of he capacitor ?
In order to prevent an electrolysis effects, the coating should be insulated from the terminals. But for the ignition is necessary only the AC electrical field. The trick is to use simple capacitor between the coat and electrode connection. For the AC it is somehow conductive, so the coat appear like being really connected, so the ignition voltage remain low. But the capacitor is still an insulator for any DC current, so no DC current could flow, so no electrolysis could occur.
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No more selfballasted c***
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Ash
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I mean, is there a "component" capacitor -in this case i asked how is the wire from the capacior attached to a coating on the glass
Or if the coating itself is the capacitor, ie one capacitor plate is a metal square standing against the coating and the other plate is just the coating itself
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James
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In some Philips lamps the tubular-shaped ceramic capacitor is clipped into the lower metal support plate which holds the arc tube pinch seals in place. This support is in contact with the IR coating. A wire connected to one of the electrodes passes through the centre of the capacitor.
In GE and Osram 18-watt lamps, a small metal strip connected directly to one of the electrodes is pressed in contact with the IR coating. There is no capacitor. This simpler construction does not lead to electrolysis at the U-bend because those manufacturers have an electrically insulated support from the outer bulb to the discharge tube. Mica or glass components are arranged at the U-bend support to provide the necessary separation.
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Ash
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Why is this an issue only near the U bend and not along all the tube ?
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Medved
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Why is this an issue only near the U bend and not along all the tube ?
Because you need some support on the U-bend, as it is the end of the arctube structure. And because of the more thermal losses there, you need an additional mirror preventing the formation of a cold spot, so sodium condensation. And Philips use to make this support structure from metal, so electrically conductive. Along the straight section the arctube does not have to touch anything, so it stay well isolated from the IR reflector.
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No more selfballasted c***
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