IOT_1928
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| I can't find a 80w/100w MV ballast for a reasonable price, and is there and MH/HPS ballasts that can be used instead? I've heard that one can use a 70w MH ballast for 100w MV lights (w/o ignitor). How about the 80w MV? I have a 50w MH ballast, but it is electronic and has a built-in ignitor.
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paintballer22
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120V/240V 60hz
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| A 70w metal halide M98 ballast without ignitor will run a 100w merc.As for the 80w it will overdrive it a little, how much I do not know.
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Medved
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...As for the 80w it will overdrive it a little, how much I do not know.
About 20%. MV's (nearly all) have ~115V arc, the M98 feed that by 0.95A, what is 100W (power factor of the arc fed by sinewave current is about 0.9 due to voltage vs current shape mismatch). So the lifetime of the 80W MV would be a bit shorter there, but it would have the output of the 100W... |
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No more selfballasted c***
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Ash
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| You can probably add some more ballasting if you add another inductor (something big probably on the order of 400W mercury/HPS/MH) in series with the mercury lamp
This would probably only work for NPF circuits, where there is no capacitor in series with the lamp
Verify this with Medved i am unsure whether i got the "400W" suggestion right or missed
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IOT_1928
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| In Canada, all HID ballasts are HX/CWA, unlike Europe, where there are choke ballasts for MV lamps.
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Ash
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| There are no hokes for 277V ?
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IOT_1928
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| I can't get 277v chokes. My suplier doesn't sell them. However, we do have HPS chokes, 35w,50w,70w,100w,150w.
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marcopete87
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| for my 125W mv i used 2x58W fluorescent ballast.
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IOT_1928
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| Can a 50w M110 ballast be used to run a 80w MV (without ignitor)?
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Medved
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Can a 50w M110 ballast be used to run a 80w MV (without ignitor)?
Look for the current, the MV80W require 0.8A. If the M110 is the same running spec as European HPS 50W, the current would be bit below 0.7A what mean the lamp would run at about 65..70W. The consequence would be longer warmup and a bit less of light. But I don't think you would find anything better, unless you would wound custom ballast... |
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No more selfballasted c***
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WorldwideHIDCollectorUSA
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HID, LPS, and preheat fluorescents forever!!!!!!
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About 20%. MV's (nearly all) have ~115V arc, the M98 feed that by 0.95A, what is 100W (power factor of the arc fed by sinewave current is about 0.9 due to voltage vs current shape mismatch).
So the lifetime of the 80W MV would be a bit shorter there, but it would have the output of the 100W...
From my experience, when I tested a European 80w mercury vapor lamp off a 70w M98 pulse start metal halide HX autotransformer ballast without the ignitor, the lamp current measured at about 0.78a since European 80w mercury vapor lamps have a 115v arc voltage drop whereas North American 70w M98 pulse start metal halide lamps run at about 85v 0.88a. The reason that the European 80w mercury vapor lamp was driven properly was because the higher arc voltage drop decreased the lamp current of the European 80w mercury vapor lamp. In that case, the European 80w mercury vapor lamp is NOT overdriven or underdriven, but close to full power. I will do a test to verify that European 80w mercury vapor lamps will run at full power on North American 70w M98 pulse start metal halide ballasts without ignitors in the near future. |
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Desire to collect various light bulbs (especially HID), control gear, and fixtures from around the world.
DISCLAIMER: THE EXPERIMENTS THAT I CONDUCT INVOLVING UNUSUAL LAMP/BALLAST COMBINATIONS SHOULD NOT BE ATTEMPTED UNLESS YOU HAVE THE PROPER KNOWLEDGE. I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY INJURIES.
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funkybulb
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| let cut all garbage here above. First i would find a Magnetic High output fluorescent ballast that runs Two lamp F48T12HO the ballast will be spot on 0.8 A as F72HO runs 85 watt 0.8 A It will be spot on to run 80 watt mercury lamp. In order to run this lamp u need use one of reds and one of blue lead that will shunt the lamp in on a two lamp F48 ballast to drive 80 watt mercury lamp as it can drive a 85 watt HO F72T12 tube.
Now on CWA 100 watt mercury ballast it will drive 80 watt mercury lamp but trick is to reduce the uF to lower uF value slightly to bring lamp current down a bit. Cause CWA ballast will shove the current to the lamp keeping it contant wattage.
That just two ways going about this
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No LED gadgets, spins too slowly. Gotta love preheat and MV. let the lights keep my meter spinning.
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AngryHorse
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Rich, Coaster junkie!
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Er….guys, why are we answering posts from 9 years ago?  |
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Current: UK 230V, 50Hz
Power provider: e.on energy
Street lighting in our town: Philips UniStreet LED (gen 1)
Longest serving LED in service at home, (hour count): Energetic mini clear globe: 56,654 hrs @ 14/9/24
Welcome to OBLIVION
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WorldwideHIDCollectorUSA
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HID, LPS, and preheat fluorescents forever!!!!!!
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| Sometimes i find it interesting to shed new light on old forums by posting what I understand about the question at hand.
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Desire to collect various light bulbs (especially HID), control gear, and fixtures from around the world.
DISCLAIMER: THE EXPERIMENTS THAT I CONDUCT INVOLVING UNUSUAL LAMP/BALLAST COMBINATIONS SHOULD NOT BE ATTEMPTED UNLESS YOU HAVE THE PROPER KNOWLEDGE. I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY INJURIES.
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