The ITT/AE Series 25s have multi-tap 120/208/240/277v ballasts if I recall correctly as well. You'll have to ask Francis. I think only some of the Series 13s, and some of the GE lights are 120v only.

Cool! I don’t know of any collectors from your country with a Series 25, let alone a FCO variant.

@fluorescent lover 40- Thats good to hear.
@Econolite03- Thanks. I know that member @Al_M has a fco model 13 from a trial installation in Brisbane.

After talking to Francis some more I have found out that he also has an m-400a2 fco! I might buy that instead. He said that he will set both aside for me until I make up my mind. If anyone wants some lights then I highly  recommend giving him a message.
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?item=145207796501&rt=nc&_trksid=p4429486.m3561.l161211&_ssn=francuacr75

I had bought a M400 NIB and it was sent to me in the original box using US post / CANADA POSTE the BOX failed mid shipping and the fixture was falling out
the fitting made it just fine but wonder if the early FAILURE of the box they took better care (OR the GE gods kept it safe)

From what I have seen Francis (Francuacr75 on ebay) packs his lights really well. Also a little update, I have decided to buy a 200w mscl from him instead because the a2 would cost about $400usd.

The weight of those mag regs are no joke. The M-400 should be multi-tap CWA. Last I saw he had two, the one for sale on eBay plus another. If the other is untouched, it might already be wired for 240v.

Isn't the one you have still listed on ebay (iirc it was made the same day). I'll hope mine is 240v (hope it works on 50hz), if not (and it's multi tap CWA) you can expect to see a post on the forum asking how to rewire it lol!

No mine is a different one in a little better shape. It came with  its original lamp but no photocell.

No need to make a separate forum post lol. If it’s wired at a voltage other than you need, all you need to do is swap the red wire from that voltage spade to the 240v one. The voltages are nicely labeled so it’s really hard to mess up. It’ll likely be wired for either 120v or 240v.

Ok great to hear, will it work on 50hz?

That I’m not sure on. Maybe @WorldwideHIDCollectorUSA or someone else can help you get a proper answer for that question.

I'll pm him.

If  ballast is CWA to run safely on 50 Hz u need to use the 277 volt tapping,  also  the capacitor for ballast in series with lamp
 Is tuned for 60 Hz what will make lamp current goes down on 50 Hz so u have to get a current meter and tune the ballast and lamp to run at proper lamp current.  If orgainal CWA cap is 24 uF
  U might need go 30 uF or 35 uF and measure the lamp current.

  I had problem with my 8 foot Popular pack that had series cap with the choke and running on 60 Hz the lamp current is 1.25 amp and ballast got very loud 60 Hz buzz to it.  Then I change the cap got it to run 125 watt tube  correctly by lowering the uF value.   Then I reduce it bit more got it American 110 watt HO on switch start.   

 What I am saying here that CWA will need some adjustment and expermenting.   

 The Mag-reg ballast I have no clue what it will do.

  Now the Choke HID ballast u will have to montitor how hot that ballast will run as 50 Hz have longer On curve that staturate the iron core.  Some chokes can run on 50 or 60 Hz and some not

Would it work to switch it on using 50hz for a short while (pretty much just warm up)?

 There no switch to change Hz on the ballast.   Most modern HID ballast will have  hard wire voltage taps.  Some are dedicated voltage, and some are Dual 120/240 volt or 120/277 volt.   Now if u cam across  advance MH electronic
 Ballast.   Look for  multivoltage one
As those dont care if those ran on
50 Hz