WorldwideHIDCollectorUSA
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HID, LPS, and preheat fluorescents forever!!!!!!
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A good number of magnifiers use 22W T9 circline lamps on manual preheat circuits.
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Desire to collect various light bulbs (especially HID), control gear, and fixtures from around the world.
DISCLAIMER: THE EXPERIMENTS THAT I CONDUCT INVOLVING UNUSUAL LAMP/BALLAST COMBINATIONS SHOULD NOT BE ATTEMPTED UNLESS YOU HAVE THE PROPER KNOWLEDGE. I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY INJURIES.
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Laurens
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I got one at work, but it's a conventional with bimetallic starter. I like it
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sdsw4
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Hmm, the guy running the local batteries plus had two packs of 2 FCL/T4 11w circlines. These might actually fit the bill to try on a small camera for OP, unlike trying say a larger FC8T9. What's a good ballast to run these on? Tried out a WH2-120-C, but it seems to be overdriving by a lot.
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WorldwideHIDCollectorUSA
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I think a good way to determine this is to know the lamp’s operating current and arc voltage drop and look for a ballast designed to run a lamp that has similar or identical electrical specifications.
From what I have gathered, I think an Advance L-1Q13-TP preheat fluorescent ballast with a FS4 starter might work well, but not sure about that either since I am aware that it probably has a similar operating current to F13T5 fluorescent tubes.
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« Last Edit: November 07, 2024, 01:45:07 AM by WorldwideHIDCollectorUSA »
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Desire to collect various light bulbs (especially HID), control gear, and fixtures from around the world.
DISCLAIMER: THE EXPERIMENTS THAT I CONDUCT INVOLVING UNUSUAL LAMP/BALLAST COMBINATIONS SHOULD NOT BE ATTEMPTED UNLESS YOU HAVE THE PROPER KNOWLEDGE. I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY INJURIES.
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sdsw4
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Correction: Finally decided to crack open the kill-a-watt. The Fulham appears to be driving the tube fine, it's pulling 12w. But still instant-start. I think a good way to determine this is to know the lamp’s operating current and arc voltage drop and look for a ballast designed to run a lamp that has similar or identical electrical specifications.
From what I have gathered, I think an Advance L-1Q13-TP preheat fluorescent ballast with a FS4 starter might work well, but not sure about that either since I am aware that it probably has a similar operating current to F13T5 fluorescent tubes.
Hmm, what's a decent rule-of-thumb to figure out the voltage drop?
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WorldwideHIDCollectorUSA
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From my experience, I would use the probes of a volt meter and have them touch the lamp’s pins while the lamp is operating.
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Desire to collect various light bulbs (especially HID), control gear, and fixtures from around the world.
DISCLAIMER: THE EXPERIMENTS THAT I CONDUCT INVOLVING UNUSUAL LAMP/BALLAST COMBINATIONS SHOULD NOT BE ATTEMPTED UNLESS YOU HAVE THE PROPER KNOWLEDGE. I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY INJURIES.
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F40
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Only if a Vita-Lite is used and I am not sure if those exist in circline and MAYBE a Philips K&B Soft White but if ur doing black and white photography it shouldn't matter, but either way its best if an electronic ballast is used
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WorldwideHIDCollectorUSA
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From what I know of, Duro Test did make some Vita Lite lamps in 22W T9 and 32W T9 circline fluorescent versions. Here are some 32W Duro Test Vita Lite circline fluorescent lamps: https://www.lighting-gallery.net/gallery/displayimage.php?album=search&cat=0&pos=2&pid=65950
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Logged
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Desire to collect various light bulbs (especially HID), control gear, and fixtures from around the world.
DISCLAIMER: THE EXPERIMENTS THAT I CONDUCT INVOLVING UNUSUAL LAMP/BALLAST COMBINATIONS SHOULD NOT BE ATTEMPTED UNLESS YOU HAVE THE PROPER KNOWLEDGE. I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY INJURIES.
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