WorldwideHIDCollectorUSA
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HID, LPS, and preheat fluorescents forever!!!!!!
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After knowing that ring lights are very popular in filming and photography, seeing descriptions for circline fluorescent lamps being translated as “ring lights”; I am beginning to wonder if high CRI circline fluorescent lamps can function just like normal “ring lights” used in filming and photography. So far, I have found this example of a circline fluorescent lamp being used as a “ring light”: https://youtu.be/hnsmHkX5bbI?si=x5D_-qPAj9PREs4v |
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« Last Edit: Today at 12:14:17 PM by WorldwideHIDCollectorUSA »
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Desire to collect various light bulbs (especially HID), control gear, and fixtures from around the world.
DISCLAIMER: THE EXPERIMENTS THAT I CONDUCT INVOLVING UNUSUAL LAMP/BALLAST COMBINATIONS SHOULD NOT BE ATTEMPTED UNLESS YOU HAVE THE PROPER KNOWLEDGE. I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY INJURIES.
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RRK
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Roman
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| Why not? But not all phosphors are good for color capture. With digital sensor, color shifts can be generally cancelled, but there are still some small problems with metamerism and color saturation for critical shooting. High CRI probably will work mostly OK.
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WorldwideHIDCollectorUSA
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HID, LPS, and preheat fluorescents forever!!!!!!
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| I was concerned that halophosphate circline lamps would make photos ugly.
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Desire to collect various light bulbs (especially HID), control gear, and fixtures from around the world.
DISCLAIMER: THE EXPERIMENTS THAT I CONDUCT INVOLVING UNUSUAL LAMP/BALLAST COMBINATIONS SHOULD NOT BE ATTEMPTED UNLESS YOU HAVE THE PROPER KNOWLEDGE. I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY INJURIES.
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RRK
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Roman
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| Not partuculary ugly, but reds/blues may come out undersaturated.
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Lcubed3
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MAXIMUM LUMENS!!!
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| Yes, they work fine. I made one for my mom and used an FC8T9/CW lamp as one. I just put it in a small adjustable desk lamp, and faced it backwards so that the gear wasn't showing and it looked more attractive.
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Portland General Electric: 120/240VAC @ 60Hz
Bringer of Light
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Laurens
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| Wouldn't use any form of fluorescents for photography ever.
I remember back in the days of CFLs that it was very hard to get a neutral tone to the pictures i took. Even in 82 CRI lamps, the green mercury emission line is noticeable in pictures. You can edit it out partially, but it is always better to take quality pictures than to have to edit everything afterwards.
Furthermore, you can run into significant rolling shutter effects due to the flicker inherent in AC driven fluorescents. You're much better off with some LED ring light, that matches the color temperature of your main lights.
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RRK
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Roman
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| But with a real camera (not mobile crap) one can always set a shutter time of 1/50+ s and longer, avoiding flicker and banding completely.
I agree that 2700-3000K rare earth may be not a good choice for a shooting lamp, paradoxically good ol' halo will be better.
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sdsw4
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| I use a 22w to light up a work area for my makeshift macroscope for soldering jobs.
The 2700k ones aren't good, but I found the 4100k ones work decently.
If you need 60fps, then you'll need a good electronic ballast. Otherwise for filmic 24fps or TV 30fps, a magnetic will be fine.
Digital isn't a problem, the camera usually corrects fine. But if shooting 35mm film, it's difficult to avoid the green with most daylight balanced films.
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WorldwideHIDCollectorUSA
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HID, LPS, and preheat fluorescents forever!!!!!!
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| Additionally, I am also pretty sure that lamps driven on electronic ballasts would also have a reduced flicker effect.
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Desire to collect various light bulbs (especially HID), control gear, and fixtures from around the world.
DISCLAIMER: THE EXPERIMENTS THAT I CONDUCT INVOLVING UNUSUAL LAMP/BALLAST COMBINATIONS SHOULD NOT BE ATTEMPTED UNLESS YOU HAVE THE PROPER KNOWLEDGE. I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY INJURIES.
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