I've seen a few stories and photos where people run their 18w SOX lamps using F18T8 gear instead of actual 18w SOX gear.
Do they do it for demonstration purposes or can it actually be done safely without reducing lamp life?

I'd like to know because I have a couple of 18w SOX lamps that are currently just sitting in their boxes gathering dust which I'd like to put into fixtures.
Can I use an 18w fluorescent ballast with a starter as the ignitor so I don't have to worry about trying to track down SOX gear when fluorescent gear could work and I can make use of what I already have?

If fluorescent gear will work, can someone please send me a simple wiring diagram with the name of each component?
Do not use schematic symbols, non standard wire colours or technical names. They will confuse me.

 I've been wondering the same thing !! I also got a pair of 18w SOX lamps recently and have nothing to run them with . Like you , I would also like to know exactly what I'd need to run them safely without all of the Technobabble !  Unlike you , I live in 120v 60Hz. land so I'd guess the answer to your question would be different from mine ?

I know there are various accounts of using Fultham workhorse series ballasts on SOX lamps but NOT sure how "close" to correct they are current wise
I would try on NEW CHINESE but NOT on OG Euro made lamps without confirmation
from experts

 I've considered the Fulham ballasts but I've seen 2 different model#'s listed as correct . I don't want to risk damage to a very hard to find lamp . 

I've been wondering the same thing !! I also got a pair of 18w SOX lamps recently and have nothing to run them with . Like you , I would also like to know exactly what I'd need to run them safely without all of the Technobabble !  Unlike you , I live in 120v 60Hz. land so I'd guess the answer to your question would be different from mine ?

Yes, the answers would be different since the 240v 50hz countries stuck with preheat and the 120v 60hz countries adapted rapid start

I believe the Fultham is electronic and 120/240 capable 50/60 capable so it would be *an option* for 50/240 land
https://www.lighting-gallery.net/gallery/displayimage.php?album=7912&pos=0&pid=231262 pic of one in my floro wallpack

I've successfully used two lamp F32T8 ballasts on SOX18 as a test, and it worked perfectly and seemed to be the proper brightness.

See that result here:
https://www.lighting-gallery.net/gallery/displayimage.php?pos=-167790]https://www.lighting-gallery.net/gallery/displayimage.php?pos=-167790

I haven't verified that it's a perfect match but perhaps someone more equipped could look into it and share the details. For my test it worked great

That's good but I don't live in the USA. I'm in Australia and the only 32w ballasts we have are for 32w circline tubes, not linear tubes.
Should I upload a photo of the ballasts and starters I have so you can see the current they put out?

Remember 120v 60hz and 240v 50hz aren't the same and there are no linear F32T8 tubes in Australia. We only have 32w circline tubes which run off a single 32w ballast.

As a North American LG member myself, I have certainly have problems running 18W SOX low pressure sodium lamps on 120V 60Hz F20T12 preheat fluorescent tube ballasts due to the low OCV. However, I have tried using some 277V 60Hz F20T12 preheat fluorescent tube ballasts in conjunction with step up transformers and I have ended up successfully running 18W SOX low pressure sodium lamps in conjunction with a glowbottle starter rated for 4 foot F40T12 fluorescent tubes.

See here:
https://www.lighting-gallery.net/gallery/displayimage.php?album=search&cat=0&pos=5&pid=209007

Because of this difference in OCV between 120V and 277V, you should have very little problems using a typical 240V 50Hz single lamp F18T8 preheat fluorescent tube series choke ballast in order to run 18W SOX low pressure sodium lamps in conjunction with 4-65W fluorescent tube starters. Other members who live in countries where the domestic mains supply is between 220V and 240V have had no problems running 18W SOX low pressure sodium lamps using these setups. Those successful experiments have lead me to try my 277V preheat fluorescent choke ballast/step up transformer experiment for running 18W SOX low pressure sodium lamps where 240V 60Hz supplies were not readily available in my apartment even though 240V 60Hz supplies are available in other North American homes specifically for high current residential appliances like dryers, electric stoves, and AC units. However, you will certainly have problems of you try running a pair of 18W SOX low pressure sodium lamps in series off of a F36T8 preheat fluorescent tube series choke ballast if you do use a 4-22W series starter for each lamp.

Yes as working voltage and current of 18W SOX (55-57V @ 0.35A) is very close to rated voltage and current of 18/20W fluorescent (57V, 0.37A). I bet it is not just a coincidence, and was done on purpose to be able to use cheap off-the-shelf ballasts in 220V countries.

The circuit is absolutely straightforward for Australian voltage, you just connect the choke in series with a SOX lamp, like you will do for a mercury lamp. Starter needs to be connected right in parallel to lamp terminals. I have heard that new SOX lamps often start by themselves just by applying line voltage.

A subtle nuance is that in last years choke manufacturers acquired a bad habit of underdriving fluorescent tubes a bit, saving themselves a little penny on materials. Just in case everyone around is dumb enough not to notice which is probably true, yes... So being smart and having on hand a good multimeter with RMS current measurement capability  is certainly a good idea.

https://youtu.be/1DfxKqt4CLY

I live in 230v 50hz land. I've done it with a 15w series choke style-ballast for fluorescents i had sitting around (i don't have a spare 18w). It appeared to run close enough to correct, to not be able to see any difference with the actual proper SOX gear i got later. It did run on ever so slightly lower current - 310 to 320mA instead of 350mA. With an 18w choke ballast, you'll be closer to correct, probably. Always measure the current.
It didn't ignite by itself. Maybe once every couple of minutes a little flicker, and rubbing the tube with a staticky cloth would also produce a few flickers, but it did not ignite. It needed the starter circuit which apparently caused a sort of ringing voltage at 300hz (a mains harmonic). 

By now i have the proper stuff so i didn't bother with the fluorescent ballast anymore. I did not think of checking how long the run up time, and the light output were, on the 15w ballast. But everything ran *very* close to being just right.

On 115v mains, this might not work because the ignition voltage of the SOX 18 is quite a bit higher than 110v.

I recommend learning the actual symbols. I have no other drawings, because only schematics are the things that are nearly universal across languages and independent of the brand, pinout and shape of a component, so that's what i use in my videos.

Take care, think twice before mucking around with mains voltage. I've been doing this for 15 years without getting a single zap from mains. I'm confident in my ability to keep it that way but even at 110v you can get stuck on a live wire and be fully concious the entire time you're dieing. Most don't die obviously but... yeah.

https://issuu.com/fulham-company/docs/fulham_workhorse_wiring_diagrams?mode=window&viewMode=doublePage
spec brochure for Fulham workhorse last pages have wiring diagrams for them and the rest show which ballast to use and it looks like the "universal" WH41 is the one you want as that is what they show for a F20T12 single lamp application

Take care, think twice before mucking around with mains voltage. I've been doing this for 15 years without getting a single zap from mains. I'm confident in my ability to keep it that way but even at 110v you can get stuck on a live wire and be fully concious the entire time you're dieing. Most don't die obviously but... yeah.

I wish I was as lucky as you.! 

Luckily I was crouching when I got the belt, and was thrown off the socket I was replacing when the power was turned back on unexpectedly, otherwise... 

a co-worker I worked with was replacing the light fixture over there front door and was up in the attic doing the wiring when the wife came home and turned the lights on - the EMT had to cut there way into the loft to get a VERY injured victim out as the power made has body contract and he was impaled on the under side of the roofing nails and that is in 110-land - he now jokes about "pulling the meter" to change a light bulb

Oww.!