How to run my F125T12 tube? « on: June 03, 2022, 03:06:58 AM » Author: 108CAM
A few weeks ago I posted pictures of my F125T12 fluorescent tube. It got a lot of comments and I learnt so much about how the tubes work and some history about the F125. I would like to try and get the tube working but have a few issues. Firstly, What ballast do I use? Some people said to use a 125w MV ballast, some said an 80w MV ballast and some, a F96T12 ballast Second, What do I do about a starter? I've never seen any glow starter that supports a 125w tube. Lastly, Some people were talking about using capacitors but I thought the capacitors were just for correcting the power factor. What capacitor do I use and how do I wire everything up? Do fixtures for 125w tubes even exist? If so, buying one would be easier than building my own because all the parts would be correct. Any ideas?
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Fluro starter pings combined with a 50hz ballast hum and blinking tubes is music to my ears.

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Total incidents since joining LG: 18
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	Re: How to run my F125T12 tube? « Reply #1 on: June 03, 2022, 03:26:54 AM » Author: dor123
Regrading to capacitors, you don't needs them. They are required only for power factor correction, which is required only in large installations of fixtures. As I told numerous times here in the site, and some American members simply don't wants to understand: Power factor don't affects lamp operation, but the current that your fixture draw from your electricity supplier. The F125T12 are indeed originally intended for 125W MV ballasts. I think they can work also on F96T12 110W rapid-start ballast (US rapid-start ballasts requires the capacitor as their ballasting element, compared to series chokes). You can find a 4-125W starter at eBay or Amazon or British lighting websites.
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I"m don't speak English well, and rely on online translating to write in this site.
Please forgive me if my choice of my words looks like offensive, while that isn't my intention.

I only working with the international date format (dd.mm.yyyy).

I lives in Israel, which is a 220-240V, 50hz country.

	Re: How to run my F125T12 tube? « Reply #2 on: June 03, 2022, 07:48:04 AM » Author: funkybulb
Dor123 these F125T12 lamps will not work on a choke by it self.  And no cap is not for PFC.   With out it the lamp cant stay lit.  And it will act like a EOL lamp. u need to scroll up and read all about this It became very deep subject.   Number one arc voltage of Mercury Is  way lower and higher current than F125 lamp so it a mis match Second even if u put it on mercury choke it still would not strike up And stay lit.   The cap is very esental to create a phase shift to bump Voltage up.   Other wise it would need 277- 300 volt ocv to keep this Lamp lit with out capcitors.
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No LED gadgets, spins too slowly.  Gotta  love preheat and MV. let the lights keep my meter spinning.

	Re: How to run my F125T12 tube? « Reply #3 on: June 03, 2022, 08:10:15 AM » Author: dor123
I didn't know about this.
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I"m don't speak English well, and rely on online translating to write in this site.
Please forgive me if my choice of my words looks like offensive, while that isn't my intention.

I only working with the international date format (dd.mm.yyyy).

I lives in Israel, which is a 220-240V, 50hz country.

	Re: How to run my F125T12 tube? « Reply #4 on: June 03, 2022, 08:27:53 AM » Author: funkybulb
@ 108CAM   The best thing to do is get a 100 watt Fluoreescent Choke from UK.  7- 7.2 cap from the UK in series with The choke and S16 starter    Or you can get a 80 watt mercury ballast and 7 uf cap in series   It will bump arc voltage and current slightly to run this lamp. U still   need use S16 starter  Here in the US things are bit easier because we have to step  Voltage up.  But some of our auto transformer ballast will have OCV problem.  Except for 100 watt CWA mercury ballast  The 95 watt HO and 100 watt tubes are nearly the same and I tested my 95 watt HO in my pop pack with out the cap and they do strike And stay lit. And Yes I do own a 125 watt pop pack.  But for now it 110 watt pop pack.   The F125 watt tubes are slightly higher current than F110 watt HO 8 footer.  And 125 watt tubes are non existant here in the US.  I only have a pair of F125 tubes once those gone,  that it for me   But if u ever do find some F96T12 / HO  reduce the next cap value   Down.
« Last Edit: June 03, 2022, 08:31:40 AM by funkybulb »		Logged

No LED gadgets, spins too slowly.  Gotta  love preheat and MV. let the lights keep my meter spinning.

	Re: How to run my F125T12 tube? « Reply #6 on: June 30, 2022, 05:06:18 AM » Author: ultraviolet
Quote from: 108CAM on June 03, 2022, 03:06:58 AM Second, What do I do about a starter? I've never seen any glow starter that supports a 125w tube. you can always rig up a switch-start setup. it would help to know the proper voltage to preheat the filaments at before you begin, though.
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applying obsolete lighting technologies for the enjoyment of the masses; why not use a magnetic ballast for a new installation? and when they tell you you can't run a t12 off that "t8" ballast.... just look back to the old preheat systems where wattage was the only spec listed.

	Re: How to run my F125T12 tube? « Reply #7 on: June 30, 2022, 05:08:54 AM » Author: ultraviolet
Quote from: dor123 on June 03, 2022, 03:26:54 AM I think they can work also on F96T12 110W rapid-start ballast this is honestly where i would start. you're not going to harm the tube by running it at lower than its rated maximum current. i've seen countless f96t12ho 110w tubes rigged up to run off a magnetic slimline ballast for a standard f96t12 and they just run at the lower output, with much longer lifespan at that.
		Logged

applying obsolete lighting technologies for the enjoyment of the masses; why not use a magnetic ballast for a new installation? and when they tell you you can't run a t12 off that "t8" ballast.... just look back to the old preheat systems where wattage was the only spec listed.

	Re: How to run my F125T12 tube? « Reply #8 on: June 30, 2022, 05:11:17 AM » Author: ultraviolet
i suppose it depends on the ballast but i've seen a number of them that indicate you should always use the yellow leads, then cap the unused blue or red leads. best to consult the label on the ballast, assuming it's intact, as they usually have good wiring instructions. also remember that some ballasts are not intended for n-1 operation and will fail relatively quickly when used in such a configuration. i've encountered a number of those that failed due to neglected relamp after one of the two tubes died.
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applying obsolete lighting technologies for the enjoyment of the masses; why not use a magnetic ballast for a new installation? and when they tell you you can't run a t12 off that "t8" ballast.... just look back to the old preheat systems where wattage was the only spec listed.