WorldwideHIDCollectorUSA
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After getting myself a 1940s Smithcraft 2 lamp F20T12 preheat fluorescent tube fixture for my collection, I gave it a cleaning with dish soap and dry paper towels since it had grease all over it. After applying power, I noticed that one side of the fixture keeps giving me a shock for no apparent reason. When I took the fixture apart, I notice that the wiring seems to be in good condition with no exposed bare wire and I replaced the wirenuts with new ones. Even after fixing these problems, I still get shocked from the same place for no reason. I wonder how I can fix this problem. I really need some immediate help here because I really want to put this fixture into regular use.
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Desire to collect various light bulbs (especially HID), control gear, and fixtures from around the world.
DISCLAIMER: THE EXPERIMENTS THAT I CONDUCT INVOLVING UNUSUAL LAMP/BALLAST COMBINATIONS SHOULD NOT BE ATTEMPTED UNLESS YOU HAVE THE PROPER KNOWLEDGE. I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY INJURIES.
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Patrick
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Did you confirm the ballast case isn't live?
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Patrick C., Administrator Lighting-Gallery.net
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WorldwideHIDCollectorUSA
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I will take the fixture apart and see if the ballast shocks me when I touch it.
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Desire to collect various light bulbs (especially HID), control gear, and fixtures from around the world.
DISCLAIMER: THE EXPERIMENTS THAT I CONDUCT INVOLVING UNUSUAL LAMP/BALLAST COMBINATIONS SHOULD NOT BE ATTEMPTED UNLESS YOU HAVE THE PROPER KNOWLEDGE. I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY INJURIES.
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Patrick
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Don't you have a multimeter or something? Using yourself as a voltage detector isn't safe.
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Patrick C., Administrator Lighting-Gallery.net
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WorldwideHIDCollectorUSA
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I have one of those. Do I touch the multimeter pins on the ballast case for determining whether the ballast case is live and have the multimeter set to volts?
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Desire to collect various light bulbs (especially HID), control gear, and fixtures from around the world.
DISCLAIMER: THE EXPERIMENTS THAT I CONDUCT INVOLVING UNUSUAL LAMP/BALLAST COMBINATIONS SHOULD NOT BE ATTEMPTED UNLESS YOU HAVE THE PROPER KNOWLEDGE. I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY INJURIES.
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Patrick
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Yeah, it'd want to be set to AC voltage. The red would go to the ballast case (maybe red or black doesn't matter, it's AC after a all), and black to neutral or ground. I've sometimes used the ground hole of an extension cord if there's not another ground handy. I'm the web guy and not an electricity expert, so maybe somebody else will have a better way, but it's certainly preferable to using your finger. You could obviously test the exterior of the fixture this way also.
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Patrick C., Administrator Lighting-Gallery.net
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Patrick
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By the way, you'll want to remove the ballast and check it outside of the fixture. Otherwise the ballast might be live due to a fault elsewhere that has energized the side of the fixture it's mounted on. While you're at it, maybe post pictures of the ballast and interior of the fitting.
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« Last Edit: February 13, 2022, 07:52:09 PM by Patrick »
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Patrick C., Administrator Lighting-Gallery.net
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Bean
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I'm assuming they aren't currently grounded? I'd use a hot stick, the NCV setting on a multimeter may be able to help.
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WorldwideHIDCollectorUSA
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By the way, you'll want to remove the ballast and check it outside of the fixture. Otherwise the ballast might be live due to a fault elsewhere that has energized the side of the fixture it's mounted on. While you're at it, maybe post pictures of the ballast and interior of the fitting.
In my case, the ballast is riveted to the fixture.
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Desire to collect various light bulbs (especially HID), control gear, and fixtures from around the world.
DISCLAIMER: THE EXPERIMENTS THAT I CONDUCT INVOLVING UNUSUAL LAMP/BALLAST COMBINATIONS SHOULD NOT BE ATTEMPTED UNLESS YOU HAVE THE PROPER KNOWLEDGE. I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY INJURIES.
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wide-lite 1000
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Another idea would be to disconnect all of the wiring and perform a continuity check between each component wire and the fixture body . I'd say that only a defective part or wire will show any continuity . Everything that's good should show nothing .
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Collector,Hoarder,Pack-rat! Clear mercury Rules!!
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WorldwideHIDCollectorUSA
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I'm assuming they aren't currently grounded? I'd use a hot stick, the NCV setting on a multimeter may be able to help.
When I used the NCV setting on my multimeter, it beeped on the sides that would shock me.
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Desire to collect various light bulbs (especially HID), control gear, and fixtures from around the world.
DISCLAIMER: THE EXPERIMENTS THAT I CONDUCT INVOLVING UNUSUAL LAMP/BALLAST COMBINATIONS SHOULD NOT BE ATTEMPTED UNLESS YOU HAVE THE PROPER KNOWLEDGE. I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY INJURIES.
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WorldwideHIDCollectorUSA
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HID, LPS, and preheat fluorescents forever!!!!!!
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Another idea would be to disconnect all of the wiring and perform a continuity check between each component wire and the fixture body . I'd say that only a defective part or wire will show any continuity . Everything that's good should show nothing .
When doing a continuity check, should I remove the wires from the ballast? In addition, how do I perform a continuity check?
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Desire to collect various light bulbs (especially HID), control gear, and fixtures from around the world.
DISCLAIMER: THE EXPERIMENTS THAT I CONDUCT INVOLVING UNUSUAL LAMP/BALLAST COMBINATIONS SHOULD NOT BE ATTEMPTED UNLESS YOU HAVE THE PROPER KNOWLEDGE. I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY INJURIES.
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Bean
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Disconnect the ballast from all associated equipment. With your multimeter set to continuity, touch the two probes together, they should beep. If your meter has a setting to zero out the resistance of the leads, do that too.
Then connect one probe to the ballast/fixture metalwork (make sure it's bare metal and not painted) and the other to each wire or terminal on the ballast in turn. They should all show an infinity reading, i.e. no continuity. If one of them does register, there's your fault.
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Rommie
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When I used the NCV setting on my multimeter, it beeped on the sides that would shock me.
How fast does it beep?
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Rommie
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NCV
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