Can you use these ballasts to run 36W PL-L lamps since EB-P has become extinct?

These ballasts should be able to run 36w PL-L lamps fine because 36w PL-L lamps are electrically interchangeable with F36T8 fluorescent tubes on both magnetic preheat ballasts and electronic ballasts. In addition, 36w PL-L lamps should be able to run fine on F36T8 and F40T12 preheat ballasts without issues.

That's a good news, I try my best to run the lamp close as possible to it's designed lamp current if I couldn't find the ballast designed to run it. I've searched around for hours and found one other variant that could run the 36W PLL lamps is the Philips EB-Ci, and then I ended up ordering the Philips HFP118/136





The seller also sell the Philips HFP180, which run the 80W T5 or the 80W PL-L, but no one seems to sell the 80W tube here

Have you considered running 36w PL-L lamps on F36T8 magnetic preheat chokes?

Yes, I do have plenty of 36/40W magnetic choke and S10 starters sitting around, but I plan to replace all the T8 in my office with 36W or 55W PL-L and 54W TL5 HO, the electronic instant start would be more ideal, especially when the tube fails, instead of blinking non-stop it would just extinguishes.

There is some symbols I don't quite understand





That looks like a grounding symbol, however the second picture looks clearer if I understand correctly, I heard somewhere that one of the lamp electrodes is longer so it has to be installed in specific wiring order?

The symbols that you circled in red indicate grounding symbols, which mean that these ballasts have to be grounded to operate properly. It seems pretty nice that you are still considering using fluorescent lighting rather than LED lighting even though HF ballasts are often considered to be junk compared to magnetic ballasts. You could opt for using electronic starters for starting 36w PL-L lamps on magnetic ballasts without the characteristic EOL blinking.

There is some symbols I don't quite understand
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That looks like a grounding symbol,

I can't see the pic's (since they are on a site blocked on my end)

If the symbol is by the ballast in the diagram, as WorldwideHIDCollectorUSA it means the ballast should be grounded.
If the symbol is by the lamps in the diagram, it means they need to be mounted on a grounded metal reflector.

It means the lamp needs an external electrode connected to the Neutral potential, so ground.
Normally the metal fixture body and/or reflector do serve the rooe of that external electrode, but until they remain grounded.

The thing is, the lamp can not directly ignite tye dis harge between the electrodes, they are too far apart. But when you imagine a small grounded electrode just on the inner side of the tube wall just by the filament at the higher voltage potential, you have quite small gap, which is easy to break down. That small electrode does not have to be grounded directly, grounding it via some impedance is good enough, it is needed only when there is not any current yet.
When that small electrode is close to some other conductor, it forms a small capacitor. And that capacitor could well be the impedance grounding that small electrode.
When that "small electrode" is fed via such capacitance, the electrode itself even does not have to be conductive or physically exist at all, the fact there is a connected conductive surface behind a glass and air near the main electrode is enough to act like that electrode.
So what happens: Initially the discharge is struck between the hot side filament and the capacitively coupled electrode. But the discharge gets way more conductive than the capacitive coupling, so it becomes close to the main electrode potential. That means the capacitive coupling further away pulls causes the further section of the tube gas to break down, making the discharge longer. Rinse and repeat, further down the tube length, until the end of the discharge meets the main electrode on the other tube end. There the main electrode is connected directly, so significant current starts to flow causing the voltage along the tube to drop, but the whole path between the main electrodes is ionized, so the whole tube has the discharge ignited.

Such surfaces, behind the glass but still contributing to the lamp operation via their capacitive coupling, are called external electrodes. They could have the form of a conductive layer, stripe, but as well any conductive material close to the discharge, so e.g. the fixture body or reflector. And in order to work, it needs to be connected to the circuit, so in this case grounded.