I got a switch over a month ago for a lamp I got on another forum it was going to be tossed because the switch failed (I probably think the switch was fine it was the ballast that failed it smelt horrible and was all black looking also tested shorted to the metal case the included lamp had no filaments left) the switch was missing and not included however I did get the 4 pin lamp connector.
My new switch is a Leviton 388 it has two blue and two black wires the socket has two black and two white.
The wires from the bottom where the ballast is are white black and green (which obviously is ground each end has a ring crimped on it and it connects with the other green grounds from the power cord and receptacle)

I know wire color sometimes mean nothing so can someone please make a diagram or a drawing?

The package has no information other then "must be installed in accordanc with NEC or local codes" which is not helpful if they don't say how as this is not a normal switch if it was this would be done already

Thank You

 Ok  this one is easy request

Hot In   ——|/|——- ballast— lamp pin one—
-
  Though cathode lamp pin 2 ——| |——-
   Lamp pin 3 going though cathode pin 4 ——- Nutural


   |/|  is normally close it breaks the circuit
   | |   Normaly open push to prheat cathode
   And start lamp

Ok  this one is easy request

Hot In   ——|/|——- ballast— lamp pin one—
-
  Though cathode lamp pin 2 ——| |——-
   Lamp pin 3 going though cathode pin 4 ——- Nutural


   |/|  is normally close it breaks the circuit
   | |   Normaly open push to prheat cathode
   And start lamp

I think this is actually two switches in one press in and hold is like the normal starter release it the lamp lights fully press again it cuts power
The old and very fried ballast was connected to the white neutral (which is wrong) I used my old and trusty Advance LC-25-TP
I know the traditional preheat setup but since both ends are on the same side I'm having trouble visualizing this sorry

The ballast was often used on the Neutral to form the slight discharge (by capacitive current towards the grounded reflector) at the ends once the cathodes reach emission, so signal the user when the preheat is sufficient.
So assume the lamp has on one end piins 1 and 2, the other end pins are 3 and 4.

The switch has two contacts: One is togglong between ON and OFF  each time the button is depressed. Lets call that Power switch.
The second switch is ON only when it is depressed, lets call it Starting switch.

Wiring with series choke ballast is then:
Phase input - power switch
Power switch - lamp pin 1
Lamp pin 2 - starting switch
Starting switch - lamp pin 3
Lamp pin 4 - ballast
Ballast - Neutral input

Other ballasts were never used with manual preheat, as far as I kmow, but there is no other way than connecting the Power switch contact into the Phase input and the Starting switch instead of the starter.