WorldwideHIDCollectorUSA
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I am curious about what the arc voltages and currents are for PL-C and PL-T CFL lamps with G24D1, G24D2, and G24D3 bases as well as G24Q1, G24Q2, G24Q3, and G24Q4 bases with the wattages of 13w, 18w, 26w, 32w, 42w, etc?
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Desire to collect various light bulbs (especially HID), control gear, and fixtures from around the world.
DISCLAIMER: THE EXPERIMENTS THAT I CONDUCT INVOLVING UNUSUAL LAMP/BALLAST COMBINATIONS SHOULD NOT BE ATTEMPTED UNLESS YOU HAVE THE PROPER KNOWLEDGE. I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY INJURIES.
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Michael
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The PL-C 10 and 13W are normaly sharing the same ballast as their current is nearly the same at about 0.17A. The 18W has 0.22A and needs a dedicated choke. The 26W is about the same as a 18/20W 2ft lamp and it is officially approved for these ballasts. The 32, 42, 57 and the 70W comes with 4 pin type socket only and are designed for electronic ballasts.
G24d- is a two pin type socket and has a starter incorporated while the G24q- does not and it has four pins. The 4 pin type therefore is approved for external starter use in combination with the same ballasts as the two pin type but as mentioned above only up to 26W.
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WorldwideHIDCollectorUSA
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My main questions is regarding the arc voltage and current for the lamps. I dont need to know what ballasts are designed for them. I feel that my right to experiment with these lamps is being taken away. Are the 13w, 10w, 18w , and 26w PL-C lamps rated to run on 100v? Are the 4 pin PL-C and PL-T lamps from 13-26w also rated to run at 100v? I did see someone run a 32w PL-T on a magnetic ballast and it seemed to run fine with no instant burnout. I did see a 2x18w autotransformer ballast with an OCV of 470v for running both lamps in series.
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Desire to collect various light bulbs (especially HID), control gear, and fixtures from around the world.
DISCLAIMER: THE EXPERIMENTS THAT I CONDUCT INVOLVING UNUSUAL LAMP/BALLAST COMBINATIONS SHOULD NOT BE ATTEMPTED UNLESS YOU HAVE THE PROPER KNOWLEDGE. I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY INJURIES.
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Ash
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13W - 91V 165mA
10W - Dont know but it is lower V and little higher A than 13W
18W - (dont know V but probably around 95...100V) 220mA
26W - (dont know V but probably around 95...100V) 325mA
Generally to run a lamp (or 2 lamps in series) you need Voc approximately around double the voltage of the lamp (or of the sum of voltages of 2 lamps) or higher, + suitable impedance (ballast)
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WorldwideHIDCollectorUSA
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HID, LPS, and preheat fluorescents forever!!!!!!
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13W - 91V 165mA
10W - Dont know but it is lower V and little higher A than 13W
18W - (dont know V but probably around 95...100V) 220mA
26W - (dont know V but probably around 95...100V) 325mA
Generally to run a lamp (or 2 lamps in series) you need Voc approximately around double the voltage of the lamp (or of the sum of voltages of 2 lamps) or higher, + suitable impedance (ballast)
Here is an example of such a ballast that I am talking about: https://www.ebay.com/itm/164170506864
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Desire to collect various light bulbs (especially HID), control gear, and fixtures from around the world.
DISCLAIMER: THE EXPERIMENTS THAT I CONDUCT INVOLVING UNUSUAL LAMP/BALLAST COMBINATIONS SHOULD NOT BE ATTEMPTED UNLESS YOU HAVE THE PROPER KNOWLEDGE. I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY INJURIES.
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funkybulb
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Worldwidehid
These lamp and ballast here in the US magnitic These lamps are old enough in this class before electrinic Craze kicked in of mid 1990s
Look at 32 wattt T8 , It was started out wiith 32 watt Rapid start in the early 1980s. By mid 1990s Thing started to cross over to elecfronic ballast Also lamp did not last as long on instant start So it took a bit longer to redesigined the T8 Cathodes to pack more emitter on them.
I also have advance magnetic preheat ballast That marked on there Thorn 28 watt 2D 2 pin. Then later in 1990s When GE bought Thorn lamps. That when 2D really took off A bit here with there GE electronic 2D adaptprs in The 1990s.
In fact any Fluorescent lamp can run on magnitic ballast As long it meet arc voltage or twice that. Rapid start Here just meets the arc voltage.
Let take a 54 watt T5 HO fpr example that tube is very high Arc voltage loading tube. To run this on magnetic u kinda need instart start ballast in the US. But once arc voltage is known we can experiment with them. Those 4 pin 13 watt PL Lamps is very common in camping lantern here. I did stuff Like flashing a old LOA twister lamp. Using 400 Hz 115 volt and 900 volt output using a large stepper Motor and turn it with my hand.
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No LED gadgets, spins too slowly. Gotta love preheat and MV. let the lights keep my meter spinning.
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AngryHorse
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Rich, Coaster junkie!
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Does this help, from the Philips catalog 1993/94
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Current: UK 230V, 50Hz Power provider: e.on energy Street lighting in our town: Philips UniStreet LED (gen 1) Longest serving LED in service at home, (hour count): Energetic mini clear globe: 56,654 hrs @ 14/9/24
Welcome to OBLIVION
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WorldwideHIDCollectorUSA
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It seems quite interesting to note that the 10w PL-C lamps still need an OCV of at least 220v even though they have an arc voltage that is low enough for a lamp that is normally operated off 120v OCV.
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Desire to collect various light bulbs (especially HID), control gear, and fixtures from around the world.
DISCLAIMER: THE EXPERIMENTS THAT I CONDUCT INVOLVING UNUSUAL LAMP/BALLAST COMBINATIONS SHOULD NOT BE ATTEMPTED UNLESS YOU HAVE THE PROPER KNOWLEDGE. I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY INJURIES.
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Medved
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It seems quite interesting to note that the 10w PL-C lamps still need an OCV of at least 220v even though they have an arc voltage that is low enough for a lamp that is normally operated off 120v OCV.
It is because these tubes are thin so need higher voltages for any ignition. And because the arc has to ignite every half cycle, it means higher OCV requirements. However the true OCV requirements may vary per maker and usually are lower, but if you want to be sure it will operate any lamp of that standard, you have to observe what the standard asks for. The thing is, specs for these tubes were optimized for 230V mains operation (so the relations between 10W and 13W one - both lead to the same ballast choke when operated at 230V).
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« Last Edit: August 03, 2021, 10:57:23 AM by Medved »
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No more selfballasted c***
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Make
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PL-T with internal starter: 18W 100V 220mA GX24 d-2 26W 105V 325mA GX24 d-3
PL-T without starter: 18W 85V 210mA GX24 q-2 26W 78V 300mA GX24 q-3 32W 100V 320mA GX24 q-3
Source: Philips Valaistus PL-lamput 01/94
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WorldwideHIDCollectorUSA
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Interestingly, I managed to get a 10W 4-pin PL-C CFL lamp to fire up on a simple 120V series choke ballast with an external starter hooked up to it and it stayed lit: https://www.lighting-gallery.net/gallery/displayimage.php?album=search&cat=0&pos=4&pid=223218
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Desire to collect various light bulbs (especially HID), control gear, and fixtures from around the world.
DISCLAIMER: THE EXPERIMENTS THAT I CONDUCT INVOLVING UNUSUAL LAMP/BALLAST COMBINATIONS SHOULD NOT BE ATTEMPTED UNLESS YOU HAVE THE PROPER KNOWLEDGE. I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY INJURIES.
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