Cutler-Hammer CH breaker panel with 100 amp service. Heat producing appliances (Stove, Clothes Dryer, Hot Water, Furnace) are gas. Largest load is the central air conditioner.

200 amp electrical service is now typical, if not the minimum, in newer homes.

Pretty much all high power stuff at home is related to heating in one way or another. Managing it all under a limited service is just by coordinating when to run what thing - Like switching off the heat in a room to take a shower (the room would then just stay warm if left closed)

All the rest, including lighting, fridge and electronics, would indeed suffice on 1x10A

Over here with the advent of electric vehicle chargers (which typically draw 30A at 240v), some older homes with low ampacity services (60A and some 100A, depends on how many heating appliances are gas fired) are finding that they have to have load sharing units to avoid such a scenario. IE switching on the range or dryer will switch off the EV charger.

That being said I think 10A 240v is quite low unless you live in a small house or apartment. Even with all the heating appliances running on gas, the air conditioner would probably use up most of the 10A available even at 240v. Unless you're using a small 8000 BTU unit I guess.

For newly constructed homes here in Ontario, 100A is the minimum for new homes without a garage or parking area. Otherwise it's minimum 200A for homes with a garage or parking area. The idea is to allow for a EV charger to be used simultaneously with the other appliances. 

@Ash: Yes, no more than 10A seems to be needed here because the heating is done by the gas. Although minimal heating appliances of ~1KW like the rice cooker, the kettle, the toaster or the heating fan are often used and works pretty gentle with the 10A circuit unless you plug in much of them.

Central AC systems are not popular among the average houses here because it is too expensive, instead internal or window AC units are used which consume around 1KW and work pretty well with 10A.

Sometimes the kettle or the toaster are not even used because you can do all that in the gas stove.

The only gas appliance we have here is the combination boiler for hot water and central heating, everything else is electric. There is no gas supply to the kitchen, so much as I would like a gas cooker, it's not possible without extensive work to get a supply in there 

@bulbman256 I actually meant 10A. That's because the house is old and more current would be a risk of fire. The power rating was given by the electricity company in the power meter. The breaker is integrated.

Oh ok just assumed it was due to the oddity of it. I share a 15 amp breaker with my brother, it tripped for no reason last week when i was upstairs and guess who was to blame. I think some static tripped it or something turned on, as us afci breakers are very sensitive and have alot of false positives.

100 amp service entering a four space Cutler Hammer Main box. One 240 volt 30 amp breaker powers my well. The other is a 240 volt 100 amp for my house. Then an Eaton 20 space panel runs all my branch circuits. Installed this one myself. I tell you what 100 amps isn’t enough for me. Got my electric dryer going with my electric baseboard heaters plus I happened to be topping off my hot tub that night managed to pull enough current to take out the main 100 amp breaker outside.

I hate to revive a dead post, but I have some interesting equipment (that is the nice way to put it) the house was built in the early 50s and for the most part has the original wiring. the house originally had 60 amp service and a 60 amp general switch fuse panel with 6 screw in fuses, no range fuse. it was upgraded to 100 amp service sometime in the 60s from what I can tell, the main panel on the outside of the house is a Federal Pacific Electric panel which has the breakers for the large stuff like the stove, air conditioning (we have a heat pump), water heater, and the well pump. as well as the outside outlets and the sheds. the smaller stuff which was originally on the 60 amp panel such as the lights and the outlets inside the house are powered by a 60 amp sub panel which is an old ITE EQ panel, it is not one of the ones that you push them to turn them on and off, it is just normal breakers.