In Europe, some old American jukeboxes have a 230-to-120V transformer to run everything at 120V. Sometimes the preheat ballasts go bad, and creative solutions are applied to fix them because 120V preheat ballasts are not readily available in Europe. Here is a quote from a French jukebox enthusiast forum where someone claims you can get a 18/20W European fluorescent lamp working with Osram ST151 starters and 230V 65W choke ballasts operating on 120V.

Quote from leon : "Salut, encore une autre solution , dans la quelle on ne doit pas changer le cablage et le tout reste en 110 volt..
<br>Comme a été dit la lampe est pareille en 110 et 220, le ballast pour une lampe 18/20 watt = 60cm de long.. utiliser un ballast 65watt 220 volt cela marche très bien sur 110 volt. pour le starter utiliser un starter courant type OSRAM ST151... le vendeur au magasin te dirat que un autre starter est aussi bon , ne l'ecouter pas n'essaye pas de lui expliquer..insiste sur un starter type osram St151 si il en a pas chercher ailleurs...Moi pour mes juke-boxes je n'achète jamais des ballast chèrs sur 110 volt ni des starters spéciales.. Leon
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Here is the original topic on the jukebox forum.

What do you think about this "conversion" ?

Well, it is impractical to use anything but ready made components for such fix.
And for such fix, it would be huge chore to rewire the whole thing so the lights will operate at 230V (in order to use the 230V ballasts).
So because the "230V 56W" ballast has similar (so the lamps work reasonably) impedance as the "120V 18W" ballast, it is nothing wrong to do that, if the ballast size or mass is not a problem there.
On the plus side, they will have way lower losses, plus run even more cooler, so unless the thing is stored in humid to rust out, the ballasts would last virtually indefinitely.

Thank you.

I imagine this would also work with a 58W fluorescent choke.

Now, I'm wondering if this setup would work with a 50Hz ballast on 60Hz here in Canada. In the coming months, I might try getting one to test it out.

Thank you.

I imagine this would also work with a 58W fluorescent choke.

Now, I'm wondering if this setup would work with a 50Hz ballast on 60Hz here in Canada. In the coming months, I might try getting one to test it out.

Using a reactor device designed for 230V on 120V should cause no problems (no overload,...; assume the impedance matches what is needed). Same with inductors designed for 50Hz, operated on the same voltage at 60Hz, again yields lower than rated current, so if that matches what is needed, no problem either.
Only except tye size and mass, if these could mean some use limitations. But things like juke boxes should have no issues with that...

Only except tye size and mass, if these could mean some use limitations. But things like juke boxes should have no issues with that...

I don' have a jukebox so this will not be an issue !

Many thanks.