Again someone picked up the idea of selling "heaters in the lightbulb package"
I'm only curious, how long would this try work... :-D

Wish them luck. With 98% efficiency, this heater is anything but inefficient

I even have fixture to "light" them in

My guess is, unless they become significantly noticed in mass media this could work for as much as a couple of years (provided they get enough customers), otherwise not very long.

I was going to order some 500 W lamps for my collection (I was too stupid, I didn't buy them when they were readily available, I only have some 3400 K photographic lamp with lifetime in hours) but then I saw the minimum order quantity. I still might buy 20x200 watt though. 

Why would they have problem with the "heatbulb" approach ?

Even better (and i consider suggesting it to them), paint a low quality "filter" on the lamps to reduce light amount (as in heat lamps), that the user can peel off

Why would they have problem with the "heatbulb" approach ?

Because the real use of these "heaters" is obvious... And even without that they would find many "arguments", e.g. the safety of the Edison socket - it practically have an exception from general safety rules (mainly the accessibility of live parts for the user), but that exception is valid only for light sources. And there are plenty other "excuses", how to kick them out.

I have the best experience of a heating with a lightbulb with my 160W SBMV lamps in my room in my father home.
Unlike an 150W incandescent, the SBMV, if the wether isn't too much cold, can replace the air conditioner for heating, and it really heats up my room like a 2000W radiator if it isn't too cold.
It is however heats only when it is warmed up. During run-up, when the filament is mainly radiating, it heats the air much less.
When too cold, i uses the lamp as an auxiliary heater with my upper split air conditioner, which reduces the frequency of the operation of it (Reducing the load of my air conditioner during heating) and accelerate the heating of my room.
My air conditioner in heating setted to 25degC (It is Tadiran N) the fan speed setted to Automatic, and the swing are active.
I don't uses my 160W SBMV lamps in my summer, as they causes my room to heat considerably, disturbs to my air conditioner when cooling, and causes me to sweat considerably. This isn't happened to me in the past with 150W incandescent lamps, which are only 10W less power. and again, these problems of my SBMVs in the summer appears only once my SBMVs warmed up. During run-up they don't distrubs.

I very much wonder why 160W SBMV is hotter than the 150W incandescent

I think it should be about as hot as 140-150W incandescent when fully warmed up (more than 160W when first switched on in "incandescent mode", but thats when the lamp is still cold so i think it's not supposed to heat the room more than the fully warmed up lamp)

Also SBMV makes less IR than incandescent, while IR is the radiated heat that you can feel near the lamp

But the IR does not heat the bulb glass, so that's the reason, why the SBMV run hotter then 150W incandescent, even when it is physically larger.

But the IR does heat the objects in the room that it hits. I'd guess heat at objects in the room is warming better than heat at a lightbulb up at the ceiling (from which it only rises up by convection)

But the IR does heat the objects in the room that it hits. I'd guess heat at objects in the room is warming better than heat at a lightbulb up at the ceiling (from which it only rises up by convection)

Yep, for that purpose the incandescent is indeed better room heater then SBMV.

My 160W SBMV lamps heats up my room in my father home, only when warmed-up and the arctube is at full brightness.
In this case, the 160W SBMV lamps, heats the room much more than an 150W incandescent lamp.
Before i brought my first Osram HWL 160W, my room in my mother home was lit by a 150W clear A shaped incandescent lamp, and the 150W lamp almost don't affected the temperature of the room.
By contrast, the Osram HWL 160W, at the summer, after it had finished to run-up, increased in minutes the temperature in my room considerably, and caused me to considerably sweat. Simply sultry.
This wasn't accured to me with the 150W incandescent lamp at all, and that is the reason why i uses the 160W SBMV only in the winter.
Also the 160W SBMV lamps aren't made from a regular glass as the 150W incandescent lamps, as when hitting the SBMV, the glass makes a different noise than the glass of the incandescent.
Edit: Another important thing about SBMV lamps, is that a 100W Philips ML lamp, produces LESS light then an incandescent lamp of the same wattage.

The filament in a blended (self ballasted) mercury lamp exists primarily as a ballast, the addition of some red into the spectrum also being a bonus.  As the filament runs considerably cooler than in most incandescent lamps when at full power, the spectral output from the filament is going to be strongly skewed towards the infrared.  This means that while the efficiency at creating visible light tumbles (hence some blended mercury lamps in fact having poorer luminous efficacies than their incandescent equivalents) they chuck out a lot more heat.

That's probably why you seem to be getting more heat from the blended mercury lamp than an incandescent.  They're actually less efficient, though that's balanced out in many applications by the considerably longer service life.

The efficiency of a "proper" incandescent is about 2%, so i guess it makes a lot of IR too (98% ?)

In this case won't the filament power (which is lower in the warmed up SBMV) matter way more than filament temperature ?

The efficiency of a "proper" incandescent is about 2%, so i guess it makes a lot of IR too (98% ?)

Depend on the design, the IR efficiency it may be down to ~80%, the 18% being convection heated up glass.

In this case won't the filament power (which is lower in the warmed up SBMV) matter way more than filament temperature ?

Filament power yes (well, nearly, as the convection heat transfer does not drop as fast as the radiation when lowering the temperature).
But about half of the SBMV power input is in the arctube, what run way colder, so have way larger part of heat dissipated only by convection.
And when the heat source is on the ceiling, the convected heat is not utilized for the heating comfort (create only hot air layer just below the ceiling), so should be considered as heat loss (unless the room above is heated as well, in that case it would contribute to this).