I am asking this on behalf of another forum as a member wants to do the unthinkable to a vintage lamp (Yes LED) all it need is a new Switch but I don't know how the wiring is done. Single lamp/ballast T9 22W Circline lamp.
That is the cheapest I have seen those switches some have 2 blue wire instead of red but I assume they wire the same just use the blue wires and not red.

Thanks

Two of the wires are your standard power switch function and the other two are wired in where the starter goes. You can test with a multimeter which one is which. The sequence is press and hold, it turns on power and momentarily preheats (as long as you hold). When you release, it breaks the starter part but keeps the main switch in the ON position. Then a quick press makes the switch go to the OFF position.

Two of the wires are your standard power switch function and the other two are wired in where the starter goes. You can test with a multimeter which one is which. The sequence is press and hold, it turns on power and momentarily preheats (as long as you hold). When you release, it breaks the starter part but keeps the main switch in the ON position. Then a quick press makes the switch go to the OFF position.

Yes I am aware of how they work but on the switch I linked which wires are the starter part and which two are the actual switch part? (Red/Blue/Black)
Thanks

Oh I forgot the ballast is in the lamp base and there are only two wires to the lamp head (Neutral and the ballasted hot lead)

Sorry, I didn't see the link.

I'm guessing the reds are your starter loop and the blacks are the main switch. If in doubt, you can always test with a multimeter.

You mention that there are only two wires going up to the lamp. However, as you know well, there needs to be four with this switch. Now, I haven't seen the lamp but could the starter wires be hidden in some other part of the lamp ? Or maybe your friend took them out while trying to "repair" it ? I'm just trying to throw in lots of ideas in hopes of finding something.

Sorry, I didn't see the link.

I'm guessing the reds are your starter loop and the blacks are the main switch. If in doubt, you can always test with a multimeter.

You mention that there are only two wires going up to the lamp. However, as you know well, there needs to be four with this switch. Now, I haven't seen the lamp but could the starter wires be hidden in some other part of the lamp ? Or maybe your friend took them out while trying to "repair" it ? I'm just trying to throw in lots of ideas in hopes of finding something.

The actual switch is in the lamp head along with the 22W T9 Circline tube. That switch was too expensive for the forum user is it possible to use two switches? One momentary SPST (for starting) and one latching SPST (for On/Off) I think it is possible as that Dual-Function lamp I had did just that I don't have it anymore so I can't look into how the wiring was done but it is possible and cheaper then the Leviton one I posted.

If there is space to do so, then yes, by all means.

I have a desk lamp that has two momentary switches : one NO for the starter and one NC for the power. Push and hold starter function as expected. The power switch is momentary normally closed, so pressing it breaks the power to the lamp momentarily and the mains voltage is not sufficient to self start the lamp again. In theory, this lamp is "always on" but the lamp remains un-struck until you preheat it with the button labeled ON.

If there is space to do so, then yes, by all means.

I have a desk lamp that has two momentary switches : one NO for the starter and one NC for the power. Push and hold starter function as expected. The power switch is momentary normally closed, so pressing it breaks the power to the lamp momentarily and the mains voltage is not sufficient to self start the lamp again. In theory, this lamp is "always on" but the lamp remains un-struck until you preheat it with the button labeled ON.

They are going the cheaper (two switches) route can you draw me a wiring diagram if you don't mind? The lamp is a 4 Pin base (What ever the Circline plug is called) and a ballasted hot and a neutral come up to the lamp head where the switches and bulb are located.

Thanks.

OK, should be doable.

See here. You want your momentary starting switch wired just like the glow starter (and instead of it). This is a European circuit and ballast on 230V but it is the same principle (and same wiring configuration) on your 120V ballast.

All Electronics Co. Part# RS-215     
2p off-on(on) toggle switch. Cost 20¢ EA min order of 5 plus $9.50 delivery.
There are 2 wires coming to the lamp head, blk(line) & wht(neutral) from the ballast in the magnifying lamp base. RS-215 4 wire switch has red & blk for (ON) and blu & wht for(start).
Wire as follows:
Blk from lamp head to blk on switch.
Red on switch to one pin on one end of 22w circline bulb. Wht from lamp head to one pin on opposite side of bulb. Blu from switch to other pin on same side of bulb as red from switch. Wht from switch to other pin on same side of bulb as wht from lamp head. You're good to go.

Guys a two button desk lamp wires up like a motor comtrol start stop using relays.  Instead of relays ballast and lamp act like a relay coil but giving off light instead.i  It nothing but a push button start/stop set up normal close is used to break the circuit in series with choke and lamp and starter loop to start lamp with a push button instead of
A starter.