Good educational info here, thanks.

In that case I would prefer not direct connection, but via some high impedance, preferably Y rated capacitors (about 2.2nF) or bleeder resistors (3MOhm total, if using the ordinary parts, assemble that from a series connection of at least 5 pieces).  These provide strong enough current path for the function of the shield as an external starting electrode, but limit the current to a safe level when a fault develops.
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So just split the neutral wire up and connect one leg to the ballasts and the other to the resistors or Y rated cap and connect it to the fixture ground?

Yep

As for the resistor option, all the inner connections between them are still to be considered "live", so isolated well from the enclosure. I'd think that using one resistor of adequate voltage rating (in the KV's, so 1W or higher for 3Mohm) would be more straightforward to isolate than a soldered string of 5, and therefore less prone to problems wit the isolation you put over it