There is rarely anything useful there. Today I did get a F8T5 CW China GE for a dollar. New in the packaging. Big Whoop. 

I did get a single strip flourescent fixture for 40 watt rapid start. The bulb WAS a F40T12 SPX41. I noticed a crack in the glass and it was dead when I tried to light it. BOOOO.

I wired it up, but NEW modern bulbs won't light without playing with it. But the Sylvania Lifeline Cool Green fired right up as did the almost new CW GE Mainlighter.

I got the Fake Westinghouse CWX running. I hadn't noticed before, but it has Sylvania date codes on it.  E5r5

I was going to put this in the radio building, but if it won't start on modern bulbs.... GRRR!

The ballast shows almost no discoloring on it. 

I even tried the early 1950's GE daylight and it lit.  The 1950s Sylvania 40 watt blackener fired up fine. So, what new to try?  GE? The new Sylvania DX failed and so did the Phillips C50 !!

Try a 25 watt tube... UTSL (GE), Worklite 25(Philips) or Economy (Sylvania).  Weak ballasts will usually fire those right up and they seem just as bright as a F40T12.

One of the GEs has a broken cathode. I got it to light on the 1950 preheater by shorting the broken cathode. The Sylvania 25 watter lights right away.
The Westy Natural lamps do also as do my 2 Sylvania cool greens. 


Powell

Well I got a single lamp high power factor ballast. It's a Jefferson Electric (Litton) NO 300-951.
It's way longer than the regular ballast. AND it's taller....so tall it may not fit in the fixture without bending metal. I am going to wire it up with new sockets and see if it works first. It's been in the store a VERY long time.  If neccesary I could always make it preheat.  I found I had a late manufactured single lamp 40 watt preheater.

Now, what difference in light in life is there over "normal power factor" and  'high power factor" ??

Well the ballast is wired up with new sockets. It instant started the Sylvania 40 watt DX.