Some have had success with the short-it-out method. Using a switch (or a very durable fluorescent starter) just short out the ballast momentarily to get the inductive flyback pulse, that should strike it. With the proper ballast of course.

I’m getting 7 pcs of 90w sox lamps and i dont have ignitor for these. I only need one but i was thinking that would there be anything else way to start those lamps?  Here in Finland all sox light has been removed 10-15 years ago so it very hard to get gear for those.

 Many of our facilities were using Herman-Miller modular furniture. The cubicle has a desk and a shelf above. Snapped into the bottom of the shelf was a fixture to illuminate the desk. The fixture  used a F30T8 lamp and was equipped with a universal 202-S-TC-P ballast, the dash S indicating an internal starter. These ballasts had a very high failure rate after only a relatively short time.

I have somewhere one of those Medved mentioned. It is 13W T5, made by Osram in the 90s. IIRC besides the starter it had also a thermal fuse in the ballast, which might or might not have been single use (which would blow when the lamp stays EOL for a while)

This series capacitor is not practical as lamp current is low frequency (~150Hz) compared to half bridge PC power supply and the capacitance has to be rather high. And is actually not necessary, as the midpoint of electrolytics serves exactly the necessary purpose, with infinite impedance at DC.

In electronic ballasts, there is typically a sense resistor in the source of lower MOSFET(s) of half-bridge/bridge, so ballast controller can see lamp current in both half-periods, and regulate/balance it.

Also, in a classic forward-type push-pull PC supply, power transformer does not serve energy storage function and so has no air gap, and has large inductance, so can saturate easily. Energy is stored in the separate powder cored inductor after rectifier diodes. In HID ballast, the inductor serves the energy storage purpose, is air gapped, and will not saturate, as it has to sustain low frequency component of lamp current.

I did need to turn on the heat... unfortunately. I'm financially prepared, but I'm probably gonna get one heck of an electric bill. lol
... two nights on the way this week, of -10 degree actual air temperatures. That's only 5 degrees higher than the lowest I've
ever witnessed back in 2013, which was -15 degrees. I wonder if my windows will bring clouds into my apartment after I take a shower?
That's what happened in my little studio apartment back then... 

 Sounds like you need to turn the heat back on !

  @wide-lite 1000, this is so true. We're in serious trouble. It's super cold in my apartment right now by the way, since I had my heater off.
Turned on all my F30T12's and F25T12's... all of them were extremely dim with slight fluttering in the F30T12's, and tons of striations going crazy
in the F25T12's. It did not take long, at all, for this apartment to get cold.

 Ya' know you're in trouble when temps in the 20's are considered a warming trend !

I haven’t noticed that, but I did find a 6 way floor lamp from 2020 and all four bulbs were Satco incandescents which I thought was odd because I don’t know anyone that sells that brand here.