@Lcubed3, I've thought the same. This entire living room is lit with eleven 2-lamp F30T12 strip fixtures, running F30T12 Cool White Halophosphate lamps, so... not the best in terms of CRI.
Although this still looks better in person, it does look... colorless. I know for a FACT that my friends would mention the same. There will be a little more color added as time goes on... this is still incomplete.
But the boneless couches was a big part of this idea.
Just a heads up though, to anyone who's wanting to get these... if you're needing to carry them up the stairs, be very careful.
I'm physically strong and I can tell you guys right now that they both seemed heavier while they were compressed... I remember almost falling backwards down the stairs due to the weight.
Had that happened, it would have been deadly. So yeah, be careful if this requires going upstairs. You may need a second person to help.

@LightsAreBright27, did your 9w and 11w PL-S lamps contain capacitors near the glow bottle? (Really interested in that 11w one as well, since
it appears we do not have 11w PL-S lamps here in the U.S.)
Also, when you say the EOL lamp flickered, do you mean flashed?
I would think that an EOL PL-S lamp, at least on a non EOL protected electronic ballast, would be extremely hard on the electronic ballast to
the point of ballast EOL.
... but what was the point of adding a capacitor near the glow switch bottle on PL-S lamps? I know now from you guys, @RRK and @Medved, that those
capacitors can enable use with certain electronic ballasts, but do they not help in terms of performance on the magnetic Preheat ballast?
Why add a capacitor for the starter based PL-S lamp if it's not required?

I did an experiment a while back, using a philips programmed start electronic ballast on pl-s 9w and 11w lamps. The ballast specified it can be used with those (out of 4 pins, only 2 should be connected). The lamps worked, and some even started with a starter 'ping' just like a magnetic ballast. I put an eol lamp, and it flickered as if it was on a magnetic ballast. After 10 seconds the ballast turned off (eol protection)


So an electronic ballast is able to run a standard pl-s lamp with a glow bottle starter.

In our town all carbon arc lamps were replaced around 1925 to high power incandescent lamps. Most wall brackets for these carbon arc lamps are still in situ but of course now with more modern street lights. One of them has a replica carbon arc lantern with CMH.
A carbon arc lamp I added last year into our lighting museum. It needs to be restored and many parts such as the glass holder are missing.

The couches look nice, but geez, you need some color in that loft!

I've noticed that HID lamps are very expensive at eBay, as well as their shipping.

After trying to help out one of our collectors with researching the fluorescent lighting that has been used in Taiwan, I have happened to discover a 2019 lighting catalog for East Asia Lighting, which I understand to be a major lighting company that serves the Taiwanese market. In case anyone wants to know more about the lighting that has been used in Taiwan, feel free to read the catalog:

https://web.hocom.tw/Uploads/userfiles/files/psznc40z6w1si6e.pdf

It appears to me that the lighting seems to have a mix of European and Japanese influences along with a little bit of North American influence. If you can’t speak Traditional Chinese, I recommend using Google Translate to read each webpage. However, you will need to take screenshots for Google Translate to do its job if using a cell phone.

The only problem with this is, the PL-S format does not specify the exact capacitor value or even its presence at all.
For magnetic the exact value does not matter and usually the starter works even with no capacitor, so some, mainly cheepeese, makers skipped the capacitor alltogether.
But the HF ballast needs the capacitor there unconditionally. It may be pretty tolerant towards its value, mainly when the glowbottle starter is present (it dictates the preheating current and OCV before the arc starts, but the glowbottle takes over the preheat when the capacitance is on the lower end), but if the capacitor is completely missing in some lamp, it won't work at all.
And because the standard does not strictly require the capacitor to be there, it needs to be formally restricted for systems where the missing capacitor won't matter, so to the mains frequency magnetic.

I doubt they're Rich Corinthian Leather, but I have found quite a few leather boneless couches online.

I have been seeing reports from some collectors that have been claiming that eBay has been starting to remove large numbers of listings for non-LED lighting. I have this feeling that in less than 10 years from now, non-LED light sources will become virtually impossible to find online due to websites forcing the removal of non-LED lamps. I have this feeling that this may mean that at some point, searching for vintage non-LED lamps, ballasts, and fixtures will become years-long efforts instead of months-long efforts. Lately, I have been seeing that lamps such as the H38AV-100/DX mercury vapor lamps have now become almost IMPOSSIBLE to find virtually OVERNIGHT. I recall how common they used to be not too long ago.