71   Lanterns/Fixtures / Modern / Re: Help!! How do i start 90w sox without ignitor ?  on: January 27, 2026, 03:51:20 PM 
Started by Myrsky27 - Last post by Myrsky27
I made Some research and discovered that 90w lps runs on 112v and 80w me runs in 115v but a bit lower current than 90w Sox. 18w Sox start up very well with s10 starter and 18w t8 ballast.
 72   Lanterns/Fixtures / Modern / Re: Help!! How do i start 90w sox without ignitor ?  on: January 27, 2026, 03:44:48 PM 
Started by Myrsky27 - Last post by Multisubject
Ehh, I would say good enough for short term. My semi-accurate calculations predict ~16% underdrive. I am not familiar with how LPS tolerates underdrive so I have no idea if this is acceptable or not. Also the lamp might not stay struck, as 230VOC is kinda low for a 112V arc lamp, especially with something as high power factor as LPS.

If the ballast has different voltage taps on the input (220, 230, 240), use a lower one than normal to maybe get a little more current out of it. I don't think you will severely damage the lamp, but I don't guarantee it will actually work.

Edit: Nevermind, I just looked it up and it appears that ~230V choke ballasts do exist for LPS. It should stay struck just fine, just probably underdriven.
 73   General / General Discussion / Re: Integral-Starter Preheat Ballasts  on: January 27, 2026, 03:39:09 PM 
Started by Multisubject - Last post by Medved
Good glow starters in fact last a lot. And probably can outlast a few tubes if not abused by constantly blinking an EOL tube. BTW, at home there is a better possibility someone will notice an EOL tube timely and turn it off and replace quickly.

The problem is the starter gets overheated when the tube is degrading so the starter "just not trips yet". Problem is, the dissipation builds slowly and so does the starter temperature. But unlike during normal start (when the electrodes heat up so quickly the way more massive bulb stays cold before the lamp starts and the starter stops dissipating), with a worn out tube the thermal loading stays for rather long time, so the theat has plenty of time spreading over the whole starter bulb, so the whole thing gets very hot, All that while the fluorescent still appear lighting normally.
If the glowbottle is supposed to last long, there would need to be some kind of thermal cutout, responding to the starter bulb getting hot. That way the heat stress is stopped before that much excessive wear, so the starter then can last multiple bulbs. This is used in the classic format safety starters, which then are rated to last at least 3..5 lamps. But that cutout mechabism reliability is another can of worms, often failing on its own due to contact oxidation,.. But that would be way too expensive for such cheepeese products. Even with normal fluorescents the extra life of the curout starter won't cover the higher price, so they are used virtually only when there is another justification for them (like stopping the EOL lamp flashing,...).
 74   Lanterns/Fixtures / Modern / Re: Help!! How do i start 90w sox without ignitor ?  on: January 27, 2026, 03:37:03 PM 
Started by Myrsky27 - Last post by Myrsky27
Would 80w mercury ballast work? (230v) if doesnt then i might be bit screwd.
 75   Lanterns/Fixtures / Modern / Re: Help!! How do i start 90w sox without ignitor ?  on: January 27, 2026, 03:21:43 PM 
Started by Myrsky27 - Last post by Multisubject
Some have had success with the short-it-out method. Using a switch (or a very durable fluorescent starter) just short out the ballast momentarily to get the inductive flyback pulse, that should strike it. With the proper ballast of course.
 76   Lanterns/Fixtures / Modern / Help!! How do i start 90w sox without ignitor ?  on: January 27, 2026, 02:25:03 PM 
Started by Myrsky27 - Last post by Myrsky27
I’m getting 7 pcs of 90w sox lamps and i dont have ignitor for these. I only need one but i was thinking that would there be anything else way to start those lamps?  Here in Finland all sox light has been removed 10-15 years ago so it very hard to get gear for those.
 77   General / General Discussion / Re: Integral-Starter Preheat Ballasts  on: January 27, 2026, 08:57:22 AM 
Started by Multisubject - Last post by Ugly1
 Many of our facilities were using Herman-Miller modular furniture. The cubicle has a desk and a shelf above. Snapped into the bottom of the shelf was a fixture to illuminate the desk. The fixture  used a F30T8 lamp and was equipped with a universal 202-S-TC-P ballast, the dash S indicating an internal starter. These ballasts had a very high failure rate after only a relatively short time.
 78   General / General Discussion / Re: Integral-Starter Preheat Ballasts  on: January 27, 2026, 03:19:32 AM 
Started by Multisubject - Last post by Ash
I have somewhere one of those Medved mentioned. It is 13W T5, made by Osram in the 90s. IIRC besides the starter it had also a thermal fuse in the ballast, which might or might not have been single use (which would blow when the lamp stays EOL for a while)
 79   Lamps / Modern / Re: Can HPS cycle on electronic HID ballasts?  on: January 27, 2026, 12:46:42 AM 
Started by dor123 - Last post by RRK
This series capacitor is not practical as lamp current is low frequency (~150Hz) compared to half bridge PC power supply and the capacitance has to be rather high. And is actually not necessary, as the midpoint of electrolytics serves exactly the necessary purpose, with infinite impedance at DC.

In electronic ballasts, there is typically a sense resistor in the source of lower MOSFET(s) of half-bridge/bridge, so ballast controller can see lamp current in both half-periods, and regulate/balance it.

Also, in a classic forward-type push-pull PC supply, power transformer does not serve energy storage function and so has no air gap, and has large inductance, so can saturate easily. Energy is stored in the separate powder cored inductor after rectifier diodes. In HID ballast, the inductor serves the energy storage purpose, is air gapped, and will not saturate, as it has to sustain low frequency component of lamp current.
 80   General / Off-Topic / Re: Severe weather never sleeps!  on: January 27, 2026, 12:45:49 AM 
Started by lightinglover8902 - Last post by suzukir122
I did need to turn on the heat... unfortunately. I'm financially prepared, but I'm probably gonna get one heck of an electric bill. lol
... two nights on the way this week, of -10 degree actual air temperatures. That's only 5 degrees higher than the lowest I've
ever witnessed back in 2013, which was -15 degrees. I wonder if my windows will bring clouds into my apartment after I take a shower?
That's what happened in my little studio apartment back then...  :lol:
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