@Ash ?

Very interesting, I haven't seen that here, and I do pay attention to cars. I presume the Toyotas and Teslas in the USA are locally made, but I've got no idea about the lights...

"Radio Lamp Company of America"? Very specific name. Cool that they were able to fit all that in the base of a semi-normal looking lamp.

https://www.antiqueradio.org/RadioLampCompany.htm

I have seen the same thing. Usually I don't see the purplish-tint associated with partial phosphor detatchment, and usually I don't see the ~monochromatic blue associated with complete phosphor detachment. I always assumed it was just different color headlights that you could get (10,000K blue for example). But of course I could be wrong.

On the rare occasions that I do see purple, that can be at least partially explained by the availability of 12,000K headlights, which are purple-ish in color. Or it could of course be partial phosphor detachment.

Never heard of phosphor detachment in headlights, but I am sure it is possible. I guess the color could be either from that or from the driver's color preference. Can't really know which one without closer physical inspection though (or using a spectrometer maybe).

I've seen various models with blue-shifted LED headlights. Most notably, Toyota and Tesla. I have a photo on my phone somewhere.

Has anyone else seen such a phenomenon? I assume it's the same phosphor detachment from high ambient heat suffered by some earlier LED streetlights?

If you shut down halogen right at the point when HPS reaches it working temperature, I bet there is no risk of arc tube overheating, run-up time likely wil be somewhat shorter. But you must respect outer bulb and base temperature maximums. 1500W halogen emits a *lot* of heat, I heard back in 1980's there was even an idea of making a crematorium using a battery of IR halogens!

 

That halogen in close proximity would almost certainly help the HPS lamp warm up faster to an extent, but I don't think that is a bad thing. In theory this would actually prolong lamp life, because the less time it spends running cold, the less the electrode material sputters away. But I kinda doubt that it would be to the extent of being noticeable.

Interesting sounding project, I would love to hear more about it

I watched a pretty old Big Clive video on the internals of an ignitor. It appeared to generally be of the "semiparallel" category, but very different from American semiparallel ignitors. It had many electronic components (DIAC+TRIAC+other things instead of just a SIDAC). It looks expensive to make. Why do they have to be so complicated? Why not just choose the three-component American style cheap-but-effective semiparallel ignitor?

Superimposed ignitors seem to be more popular there than semiparallel, but I do wonder why this design was chosen.

So i was thinking of doing one my my home brew operations again.... I want to build a compact linear HPS system with an auxillary lamp and a shutter system. I cant see this coming to fruition any time soon due to the fabrication skills that I still need to develop more.... but it has been on the books for a minute.


What I am curious about specifically is the effects of having a 1000 or 1500 watt halogen lamp in close proximity to an HPS lamp/arctube while it is warming up. Would it heat up faster noticably? Would it cause life shortening due to some form of stress I am not thinking about? The application does not call for much life anyway. 500-2000 hours is acceptable.. but i am still curious. The auxillary lamps would only function up until complete warmup and then shut down. The hps lamps in question would just be some generic tubular grow light lamps from alibaba. I would not abuse name brand lamps like this.