Well, this all is over-complicated for a person who probably even does not own an oscilloscope.

As a rough hack, I'd try some reasonable sensitive opto-TRIAC like Sharp S102S01 or S202S01 and just connect it's LED input in series with some suitable current-limiting resistor say, 330 Ohms by luck across the buzzer, be it piezo or electromagnetic. If this does not fire, reverse the polarity. TRIAC output could drive high voltage halogen or HF halogen supply directly, I'd be a bit cautious with magnetic 12V transformer, but probably still OK.

I dont think the chip matters that much. I'd do the following :

 - With the buzzer either in circuit or removed (choose how you are going to make it in the end), add a rectifier bridge across it, then few uF capacitor on te DC output. To be nice to the chip which is driving it all (and not short its output with the capacitor which pulls high current to charge), add a few 10's Ohms resistor in series with the input of the rectifier bridge

 - Evaluate what is the voltage in the capacitor. Connect a multimeter across the capacitor, and see how high it charges when the alarm goes off

 - Connect an optoisolator to the capacitor (so the alarm will flash the optocoupler), with suitable resistor for the voltage you measured

 - Connect the other side of the optoisolator to a circuit that will shape the flash seen in the optocoupler to a nice timed pulse. It can be a monostable 555 circuit (look it up, adapt the component values to your needs) or any other circuit which does the same thing

 - Connect the output of the timed pulse to a suitable bipolar transistor or FET and then your relay



I expect that the circuit doesn't apply constant DC across the buzzer when it is silent. (It definitely won't with a magnetic buzzer, but it might or might not if the buzzer is a piezo disc. If there is constant DC there, you may have to add another capacitor (few 10's...100's uF) in series with the rectifier bridge input in order to block the DC

@Ash
The elliptical shape superimposed on a T neck and top is what I traditionally think of with BT. Different sizes based on 1/8" as usual, commonly BT28, BT37, and BT56, but BT15 also exists and was used for some halogens, I am sure you have seen all of these.

That more cylindrical version common to 100/175W MV lamps is usually BT28 size, but I have also seen some rarer BT28s that look more normal, without sharp corners. Looking up "BT28 lamp" yields photos of both types of BT28 envelope. I personally am not huge fan of the less rare more cylindrical version that you are talking about, but it technically is still BT shape.

I have seen those tubular bulbs with only very small bulges with the HQI-BTs, I haven't seen any standard for that size. I haven't seen them referred as "BT##", just plain "BT". Unsure about the specifics there.

BT is a little ambigous as i have seen at least 3 different lamp shapes referred to as "BT" -

 - Elliptical shape, superimposed over T neck and top - Many Iwasaki lamps

 - Cylindrical central section, little bulged, superimposed over T neck and top - Typical US 100/175W Mercury lamps

 - Tubular shape (with rounded top), with one small bulged part in the center - Osram HQI-T and their Chinese clones

Hi all, I would like to let you know that I have anxiety, OCD, and panic attacks. I am gradually accepting this as part of who I am and disclosing it to people I know. I've dealt with anxiety and OCD since I was a young child. The past two and a half years, I've began to have occasional panic attacks, which are really scary and uncomfortable, and often leave me feeling physically ill. With all that's going on in the world right now, and stress that I'm dealing with individually, I had a panic attack yesterday at work. I'm doing okay today and I'm finding ways to manage these episodes.

It seems like some days I worry about EVERYTHING. In order to tame my anxiety and bring myself to a better state of mind, I do the following:

Stop what I'm doing and go someplace alone.
Take my medicine.
Listen to relaxing music.
Pray.
Focus on things I'm thankful for.
Focus on enjoyable hobbies and interests (i.e. lighting and cars)

I will say that lighting and a site like LG is a blessing for me to enjoy a unique interest with other likeminded people 

Anyone have any advice or memories of their own struggles? After reaching out to a few people, I've found I am not alone in this battle and that many people are actually very understanding and compassionate.

I know how you feel bro! I have Autism and suffer the same kind of way as you. I know, it’s horrible! I had a panic attack in Hospital while I was having my Blood test, and when I got back to the car, I felt really dizzy, nauseated, everything around me sounded fuzzy, hard to breathe and floppy dead arms. It was traumatic. I also have ultra sensitive hearing, and I have a mini fridge in my bedroom! I’m kicking at the thing to make it shut up! Hope you get better, kindest Regards Fox

I would say unless you plan on burning through them all, getting one cooler lamp is better than four meh lamps. But I am more of a utilitarian person.

My late father used the Radio Shack kit to connect to my alarm clock to the kit to activate the bed vibrator.  I'm currently using the Sonic Boom as shown at My Nightstand at my new Home.

A piece of circuit reverse engineered around the buzzer will help, or at least a board photo. The buzzer may be passive, driven by some pulse series from the chip, or active DC driven with internal oscillator. In the case of passive buzzer, some simple peak rectifier circuit needs to be hacked to keep MOSFET or solid state relay or whatever input steady.

Do you have an oscilloscope?

So a while ago, I posted on fluorescent under cabinet lights for my laundry room. But now that I’m ready to buy the fixtures, I have a question. There is a 33 inch model, and a 42 inch, but if I bought two 33 inch I would fill basically the entire length underneath. But if I bought one 42 inch, I would have maybe 6 to 8 inch’s of unlit space on each side. Is it better to get two smaller fixtures, or one bigger one?

For the clock control chip it would either be some microcontroller with a proprietary firmware, so datasheet won't help you to get the functional description.
Or it would be a some clone of one of the common LED clock chip like LM8560 or similar (they differ in display configuration - the most recent and most commonly used I remember the LM8560 has a two common cathode "duplex" display, the earlier chips I have seen jut in datasheet used single common cathode)
What backup battery it uses? 3V or 9V?
What display it uses? LED or LCD? Is it multiplexed?